Mercruiser electrolysis / merCathode ?

[abl1111]

Anyone here familair w/ the inherent problem w/ Mercruiser's Bravo 3 drive electrolysis ? ( This question is for people who keep their boat in the water - not dry stored ).

Do you have a MerCathode installed ? Does it work well ? Does this cathode have to be replaced or is it a permanent thing ? Is the Bravo 3 worth the extra hassle of having to always be plugged into shore power for protection ?

Thx,

Alan

[barnacle]

THe Bravo 3 drives have a problem in this area. All your bravo series comes with the MerCathode set up if your repowering. What gives this drive problems is the stainless wheels. THe MerCathode system works off of 12 volts from your battery. Its very important to be sure its hooked up right to the battery. 99% of the problems can be found by a good dealership that will come out to your boat when its in the slip. They will have a meter that they can read the voltage around the drive. Also be sure to use the oem zincs over the aftermarket ones.

[abl1111]

Joe,

Does the MerCathode set up have to be plugged into to dockside electric when not in use ( w/ out electricity, will it kill my battery ) ? do the zincs have to bechanged very often, even w/ the MerCathode system ?

Also, I am still playing w/ going w/ a Bravo 2 instead of a Bravo 3. The Bravo 3 sounds great except for the electrolysis. A few questions if you don't mind:

What are the negatives of a Bravo 2 ? My understanding is that it is beefier than the Bravo 1 or 2 and spins a bigger wheel.

The Bravo 3 would be great but the electrolysis and potential maintenance is a little scarey.

I am not looking for exceptional speed. I want a bullet-proof, efficient, drive that moves out well when bolted to a 350MPI Horizon.

Oh, and lastly - this is a bit vague, but someone recommended that when I buy a new motor, that I also buy a part to replace an already existing part, a spline or gear where the outdrive's shaft connects to the motor. The stock part is aluminum and 'should' be replaced w/ this iron replacement part to avoid being stripped. Supposedly, if you idle a lot, the aluminum part, due to harmonics will not hold up as well - and is prone to shearing. Do you know what I'm talking about ( 'cause I don't !)

[cc]

I repowered my searay this past winter with a Merc 250 hp Bravo 1 with full (manifolds as well) fresh water cooling system. This unit is pretty much bullet proof compared to the alpha,s. The Bravo 2 outdrive is beefier, really made for work boat applications, large slow movers. Not much choice in propellors. The Bravo 3 is more efficient than the Bravo 1, owing to the twin counterrotating props. Slightly higher speeds for same horsepower, higher costs also (two props vs. one), and then there is that corrosion problem. As a mechanical engineer, I opted for the Bravo 1. Been around longer, reliable, whole lot less moving parts to go wrong. I subscribe to the KISS theory, "keep it simple stupid". Just my two cents worth.