(half) wet transom three, grrrr

[PressureDrop]

i too, found i have a wet transom, somewhat, heres the deal, the top half of the transom is fine, however the bottom is almost mulch, and the middle is also fine becuase the wood was taken out and replaced with alluminum to support the bracket, so the bottom sides are damp, water does not flow out. im not in the mood to rebuild a whole damn transom, so i want to use git-rot, any other ideas? also the inside skin is delaminated from the core. so i think once i get some git rot in there i can cut that you and re glass it? sounds good, right? throw me some ideas!
Thanks

Ben

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA BEN
SORRY TO HERE ABOUT THE TRANSOM. I WHISH I COULD AGREE WITH YOUR PLAN BUT I DON’T THINK THERE IS A GOOD WAY TO FIX YOUR PROBLEM OTHER THAN DOING THE WHOLE THING AND DOING IT WRIGHT. I RE DID MINE AND AM VERY GLAD I DID. IT PROBABLY ISN’T ANY HARDER TO DO IT WRITE THAN BY TRYING TO CUT CORNERS. I DID MINE FROM THE INSIDE. I CUT THE BACK OF THE CAP AND REMOVED IT THEN I REMOVED THE OLD LIVE WELL AND SPLASH WELL. THAT GAVE ME PLENTY OF WORKING ROOM. YOU CAN SEE SOME OF THE PICTURES HERE UNDER 23’ KEN MCGOVERN. I USED THE WEST SYSTEM AND MARINE PLYWOOD THE TRANSOM IS NOW STRONG AND I DON’T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ANYTHING BACK THERE FOR A VERY LONG TIME.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img]

[Scott]

Ben

What happened and how did you find it??? Sounds like this one caught you by surprise?? [img]images/icons/frown.gif[/img]

Unfortunately I'm with Fellowship. Sorry .... but if the lower half of the transom is "mulch" Git-Rot will not save you, as the core material(plywood) has no structure left. I think the Git-Rot stuff is intended for dry rot conditions when the wood has some of is structural integrity left in it. You need to be careful with rot on the lower half of the transom as the mount from the motor will push it right in.

My transom is passable..... but I'm thinking an awful lot about its condition. Like Fellowship says its nice to know you have a solid transom.

[Briguy]

I understand your concern. You should read everything you can about transom repair on ROTDOCTOR.com Don't even think of using gitrot. Keep us posted on how it goes. As for a quick idea. Drill several 1/4 inch holes near your transom drain maybe 2 or 3. See how that goes. If the transom is dry but rotted, you may be able to patch things up fairly easily by drilling a hole starting from the cap all the way streight down to the bottom of your transom. You will need a hell of a drill bit.(try a masanory supplier) Then fill the holes with the liquid rot product over several days with the rotdoctor stuff. They are designed to migrate throughout the transom into any dry wood to add strength and further waterproof it. Make sure your drain hole and bait well holes are very well sealed. Fill the drill holes with epoxy and top with a layer or two of cloth and paint. It's better than having to sell the boat or having your motor fall off.

[Reel Smoker]

Hey Ben sorry to here about your transom,been there, I know its a bad feeling.I used Git rot on a soft spot in the lower part of the transom.It help for a while but like Fellow and Scott said thats not the solution,a new transom is.I had mine done in Stuart Fla.He did an excellent job. The place is called Wildfire Marine he specializes in Seacrafts, good luck .RS.

[PressureDrop]

see i thought the transom was dry cuase when i pulled out a thru hole near the top of the transom it was rock solid, but when i got to the unsealed one near the bottom (a little above the water line) the shit hit the fan. grrr this makes me mad, but the motor is on a bracket, and i could stand on the edge of the motor and jump with 0 transom flex becuase of the aluminum.

RS i was thinking of having that done
professionally, ill check out that place, how much did it cost you?!?!?!?! thanks!

Ben

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA BEN
I DID MINE AND IT COST ME ABOUT $300.00 IN MATERAIL PLUS 40+ HRS.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Billybob]

The problem you'll have with the rot doc stuff is how do you get the core dry.I've heard of blow dryers and vacuums, and I guess you can give it a try - but it really has to be dry to work.The stuff does work on dry wood, and the people at rot doc are very helpful.Mine was upside down for 2 years, so when I drilled a few holes near the bottom it was dry, but the top inch or so was wet because that transom cap trapped the rain.I dug out the wet stuff on top put epoxy and chopped glass in there, but before that I figured I'd use the rot doc to seal up the bottom part.The stuff does migrate all the way down and seems to do a real good job - but it's gotta be dry, and I don't think you'll have much luck getting yours completely dry.Did I mention it has to be dry ?

[Scott]

RS

$6200 for the transom enclosure/transom covering board.... splashwell out ... new deck in its place and the bracket???? plus painting???? WOW !!!!!

GET THOSE PICS UP!!!! If you need a hand ... give a shout .. be glad to help ya [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

You dont want to know the "ballpark quote" I got for that work [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]

[Reel Smoker]

Scott, my wife took the pics with her to work today but did get a chance to scan them. I guess if she puts them in a disk I can e-mail them to you ? Can you post them? Besides the livewell on the deck I asked him if he can make me an insulated fish box, which he did and also put a small pump under the box that way when the ice melts just hit the switch and water is pumped out.Yesterday I screwed a piece of starboard underneath the Livewell hatch, now I have a permanent out of the way when not in use cutting board.Another advantage of the livewell high in the transom is you dont have to reach over the gunnels to clean your hands.I spend alot of time on the reef of yellowtailing and I'm constantly chumming and baiting hooks.Before I used to have a bucket,now I dont need one. Theirs so many advantages to a full transom .RS.