Twin 140 4 Stroke on 23 CC

Tuck · #1 11-07-2003, 06:22 PM

Iam restoring a 23 CC Seacraft 1983. I did not put on a bracket for fear of performance or stress. The boat had 89 twin 200 Yamaha. My hope is reducing weight from 900+lbs to 800+ lbs. Any thoughts on enough power?,waves over stern while anchored?, etc.

Thx,
Tuck

2 Boat Bill · #2 11-07-2003, 07:34 PM

Tuck ... In September '03 I purchased a 1984 23CC that I plan to update. I sold the 1989 150HP Mercurys that were on it, because I also plan to repower with 4-strokes. I live in Columbia, SC and generally fish from Edisto Beach, SC. I get to Beaufort occasionally and would like to see your boat first hand, and hear any words of wisdom you might offer.

2 Boat Bill · #3 11-07-2003, 07:37 PM

Tuck ... In September '03 I purchased a 1984 23CC that I plan to update. I sold the 1989 150HP Mercurys that were on it, because I also plan to repower with 4-strokes. I live in Columbia, SC and generally fish from Edisto Beach, SC. I get to Beaufort occasionally and would like to see your boat first hand, and hear any words of wisdom you might offer.

Bigshrimpin · #4 11-08-2003, 02:45 AM

Tuck . . . the 140's are actually heavier than the old yamaha 200's. A 1989 yamaha 200 weighs in at only 390lbs. The 25" Suzuki 140 weighs in at 420lbs.

[ November 08, 2003, 01:49 AM: Message edited by: Bigshrimpin ]

ScottM · #5 11-08-2003, 10:06 AM

Tuck,
If properly installed, a bracket will not stress the transom and will actually improve performance. If you're going the twin route when repowering, I'd recommend a floatation bracket to keep the stern as high in the water as possible. A pair of either 115/140 4-strokes or 2-stroke DI's should give you ample performance - 26-28 knots cruise, 36-38 knots WOT. If you're looking for speed, go with 150-175 2-stroke DI's. Leaving the transom as is (25" I assume), you will get waves over the back very easily, especially with a couple guys back there. Good luck.

Tuck · #6 11-08-2003, 06:41 PM

Thanks to all for twin 140 on 83 23 CC responses. If I may, I will elaborate on what I am doing on my restoration: We removed all access deck, console, tower, leaning post, wiring, motors, etc. Next we cut out soft decks and replaced. Fared all non plumb or scuffed surfaces inside and out. Removed fuel tank and resealed for future leaks. Removed old rub rail and replaced with solid aluminum with ss trim. Repainted exterior custom color which we had Awlgrip match. Removed in deck live well and replaced with new on deck under leaning post. Filled in all old thru holes with fiberglass and replaced with all new SS including scuppers. Filled in interior scupper through on deck to gain 3/4" in height. New fabric on tuna tower and new cushions on front bench and leaning post. New continuous puddings around interior covering boards. All new navigation chart plotter thru hull sounder, bildge pumps, washeadown, nav lights, new SS cleats, hosel hole for stern tie up, new decks with non skid, new main fuel line with grounding, etc, etc.., etc. Now it is time to repower. In the classic sense of the boat I do not want to put on a bracket , but I will if it improves safety or performance. Safety is key...

VitaminSea · #7 11-10-2003, 11:27 AM

Tuck...Sounds like you did a great job on the boat. I also have a 23 but it is a 1972. Like you, I repowered from twin 1976 Johnson 85's to 2004 Yamaha F115's. My problem is that I chose 25 inch shafts on a 20 inch transom and like you I do not want to put a bracket on. (chose those because of the counter rotation). I have the old style splashwell with the baitwell in the floor. After running the boat for 35 hours or so, it is a bit heavy in the rear. The only real problem come from the following sea. Two ideas that I have are both from boats with the similar problem. One was to raise the motor height and rear height with a custom made motor bracket that I found via a guy here in Summerville, and the second was a guy had plexiglass made to block the extra water that might come from backing down on something. Both motors could still turn, but it stopped some of the water from coming over the back. Like you, I would like to keep everyting as original as possible. The bracket plate is probably the way I'm going, so far it looks like it wil run around 500 buck for a stainless steel "motor bracket" with the white powder coat.