Leaking floor scuppers

RIRED · #1 02-25-2003, 07:38 PM

Own a "74 CC I/O that has leaking floor scuppers into the bilge. Whats the best way to stop the drip? Also, any idea why one of the floor scuppers sucks the water out of the boat and the other one shoots it in? Please help.

Jon G · #2 02-25-2003, 09:13 PM

Welcome to CS RIRED. The best way to fix those scuppers is to replace the brass tubes with new ones and seal them real good. If you do a search here for "scuppers" I'm sure you will find a few posts about this problem. As for the water shooting in one of them check that they both have the small piece of glass that acts as a deflecter still there. These are a small rectangle wedge on the outside of the hull just in front of the scuppers. It sends the water down slightly before it goes over the end of the scupper. If you are missing one of these you might be catching some water or the bottom of the tube is damaged grabbing some water as well, take a good look at you tubes on the outside. You do not [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img] want these leaking into the bilge. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Miles Offshore · #3 02-25-2003, 09:18 PM

You need to replace the tubes that go down thru the scuppers. if they are plastic you need to change over to brass and flare both ends. The reason one shoots water in is because the bottom of the tube on the underside of the hull is probably lower than the "dam" just forward of the scupper. When you replace the ones that are in there now ensure that the flared bottom does not extend past the dam, ledge or whatever you call it. The tube is pretty long also and most marine stores around here dont carry, you will have to locate them somewhere else. A friend of mine also made a custom flareing tool that makes it pretty easy. I can probably post a drawing of the tool if anyone is interested. craig

Scott · #4 02-26-2003, 12:31 AM

Boston Whaler dealers sell those tubes in the length that you'll need…been there done that

JonG and Miles hit the nail on the head....That wedge forward of the thru-hull creates a venturi or an area of lower pressure hence once the boat is running it sucks the water out. Any thing that has changed in front of that thru-hull could change that or like miles said ... if something is sticking past the wedges profile the opposite occurs.

Miles I would like to see that tool

RIRED · #5 02-26-2003, 09:04 AM

Looking carefully at the brass it does not look to be lower than the bottom of the hull. There is no dam. What would you recommend? Is it hard to replace the brass tubes? Thanks

jw · #6 02-26-2003, 10:09 AM

I had the same problem. I just removed the thru the bottom scuppers. Changing over to a Perko scupper, and now trying to figure out if the scuppers should drain to the bilge or go overboard.
My rig will live on a trailer, so I do not have to worry rain water sinking her. Plus the blocks of wood that the scuppers went thru were rotten and had become loose. I can post a few picks about what i am doing after i get finished with this Plauge.
Covered in fiberglass dust.
JW

Jon G · #7 02-26-2003, 03:43 PM

I heard from an old SeaCraft fan that what they used to do to the 23's with twin engines was to put a couple of clamshell vents over the tubes on the bottom of the hull with the open part facing to the stern. The clamshell created a vacuum even at idle speed to help pull any water out because they were low riders with the twin v-6's. I might try this this year if I find the time to first replace my tubes. You might give it a shot since you dont have the little deflecters there already. I have the deflecters and even then once in a while a quick shot of water will come up running in chop from wavetop to wavetop, I imagine with nothing there you are getting some good water running in there?

RIRED · #8 02-26-2003, 04:55 PM

What do the deflectors look like? Can they be glassed on?

Scott · #9 02-26-2003, 06:28 PM

RIRED .. they are actually molded into the hull (the 23)... a picture would help alot right now but I don't have that shot....Its only a slight wedge maybe 3-4" wide about 5-6" long one end tapers to a point(towards the bow) and the other end is maybe 3/8 to 1/2" high (towards the stern)

JonG's suggestion might be a whole lot easier to accomplish

The other way would be to go out through the transom or hull sides

[ February 26, 2003, 05:30 PM: Message edited by: Scott ]

Miles Offshore · #10 02-26-2003, 06:59 PM

The tool I mentioned above is really nothing more than a piece of allthread with a washer and nut on one end and the same thing on the other end that will actually slide into one end of the tube. Tightening up on the nut in one direction will actually roll the end of the tube quite nicely, (putting some 4200 in when sliding the tube in. Cutting the other end to the right size is probably the hardest part(so I am told) as you only want about an 1/8" remaining so when you reverse the tool it makes a nice clean roll on the other side. My friend who did this on his boat chose only to roll the inside portion of the tube and cut of the bottom flush with the bottom of the boat. Without a built in ledge on your boat this might indeed be the way to go. He is making me a tool or giving me his and I will either put up a picture or make a nother one and send it out/around for everyone to use if it sounds like a good idea and it gets back to me eventually. I hope I never need it again !!LOL. Anyways the size of the tubes vary a little bit I understand so the washer that goes inside the tube might need to be adjusted but hopefully not.

Edited for stupidity- reverse clamshell just over and forward of scupper will work fine- just dont try it with a reversed thru-hull fitting to avoid redoing the tube itself.

[ February 26, 2003, 06:20 PM: Message edited by: Miles Offshore ]