LT'S REBUILD,,HULL CAP

[ltdan]

HOW YA'LL DOING? I'VE BEEN BUSY EARNING SOME EXTRA DOUGH FOR THE PRODJECT. JUST PAID FOR A NEW ARMSTRONG WIDE BODY BRACKET. MY BIG QUESTION IS,HAS ANYONE HERE HAD THE HULL CAP OFF TO RECORE IT. THE NOSE ON MINE IS ALL SOFT, SO I'M GONNA REDO THE WHOLE PIECE. ANY GUIDENCE/EXPERIENCE WILL BE APPRECIATED. THANK'S IN ADVANCE.
LT DAN

[ocuyler]

Dan,

How's it going? I was trying to find you during my last trip to Jupiter. Ran a SeaRay 38 from Jupiter Yacht Club up to Pirate's Cove in Stuart on the outside. Some fun. Wanted to see your boat.

We were lucky on mine in that the cap didn't have to move. We had enough other "issues". I'm no pro, but have you considered just cutting out that section from the top?

Keep in touch. Post pictures.

Regards,

Otto

[Billybob]

Dan - I think someone here has done it, maybe they'll chime in.But, it's sure to be a big job.If it's just the nose area, I would go with Otto's idea, or even do it from below if you don't want to mess with the skin and non-skid.You'll have to remove the anchor locker bulkhead, and grind out the core.Soak your new core in epoxy, put some poly sheeting behind it, then a piece of plywood and brace it till it sets, then just layup your cloth.There's a guy named Hawkeye who has a nice old 23 Formula, who redid his foredeck this way, he posted this project a while back.You can find him at the hull truth.com.That cap might be a bear to get off without wrecking it especially back at the transom.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I REMOVED MY CAP AND RE DID THE WHOLE THING BY FLIPPING IT OVER CUTTING THE LAYER OF GLASS OFF THE BOTTOM SIDE REMOVING THE END CUT BALSA AND RE PLACING WITH 3/8” MARINE PLY IN THE BOW AND USING ½ “ ABOUT MID SHIP TO THE BACK WHERE MOST OF THE ROD HOLDERS ARE. YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE RUB RAIL TAKE ALL THE SCREWS OUT FREE THE CAP YOU WILL NEED 3 GUYS TO LIFT IT AND FLIP IT OVER I USED 5 SAW HORSES TO SUPPORT IT WHILE I RE DID THE WHOLE THING I ADDED A LITTLE GLASS ON THE UNDER SIDE WHERE I THOUGHT IT WAS WEEK, I ALSO RE SEALED THE INNER LINER TO THE HULL SINCE I HAD ACCESS TO IT ADDED EPOXY WHERE NEEDED. I USED THE GLUE AND SCREW METHOD WITH EPOXY TO INSTALL THE PLYWOOD REPLACED THE GLASS AND RE INSTALLED IT BACK ONTO THE BOAT. IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER AGAIN I WOULD HAVE CUT UP THE PLYWOOD IN SMALLER PIECES I GOT SOME PRESSURE CRACKS ON THE CAP BECAUSE THE FLAT SHEETS OF PLYWOOD AND THE CONTOUR OF THE CAP ARE NOT THE SAME. YOU CAN SEE SOME PICTURES OF THE CAP UNDER KEN MCGOVERN 23 AT THIS SIGHT. GOOD LUCK
FELLOW-SHIP

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I ALSO TOOK THE OPPORTUNITY TO RE DO THE ANCHOR ROPE HATCH WHILE MY CAP WAS OFF USED THE OLD ONE FOR A STENCIL USED ¾” PLYWOOD GLASS AND FILLER THEN PAINTED AND INSTALLED IT WITH A NEW HATCH DOOR DURING THIS PART OF MY RE BUILDING PROCESS. THE ROPE BULKHEAD SLIDES RIGHT INTO THE INNER LINER OF THE BOAT AND IS ATTACHED WITH 2 OR 4 SCREWS. I ALSO GLASSED THAT LOCKER TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAP WHEN I PUT IT ALL BACK TO TOGETHER AGAIN. THIS PROCESS TOOK APPROX 8-12 WORKING DAYS IF I CAN REMEMBER CORRECTLY.
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[ocuyler]

Man,

I thought I was in too deep...

Otto

[ltdan]

THANK'S EVERYBODY. I'LL START ON IT NEXT WEEK. I'LL TRY TO GET SOME PHOTO'S GOING TOO. HEY KEN, DID YOU HAVE ANY TROUBLE WHEN IT CAME TO PUTTING IT BACK ON THE HULL,AFTER THE NEW LAY-UP. DID THE CAP RETAIN IT'S BASIC SHAPE? THANK'S AGAIN,
LT DAN
P.S. HEY OTTO,TO BAD WE DIDN'T HOOK UP. MAYBE NEXT TIME. I KNOW THE ROUTE YOU TOOK LIKE THE BACK OF MY HAND,AND THE WATERING HOLE AT PIRATE'S LOFT IS GREAT. YOU MIGHT SAY I'VE SOAKED DOWN A MICH LITE OR TWELVE THERE BEFORE,,TITE LINE'S TO ALL

[FELLOW-SHIP]

NOT MUCH OF A PROBLEM PUTTING THE CAP BACK ON THE BOAT WILL STILL NEED THREE GUYS AND A COUPLE OF PINCH BARS TO GET THE CAP OVER THE HULL/INNER LINER IT’S LIKE PUTTING A NEW SHOE ON YOUR FOOT FOR THE FIRST TIME YOU NEED A SHOE HORNE.
FELLOW-SHIP