Best Brush and roller combo?

[Bryan A.]

I am going to be painting my deck this week.
One coat of primer. Two coats of interthane plus, Taping off non skid area. Then two coats of Interthane plus with non skid compound. The question is what roller and brush combination would be ideal for this job. I want to avoid brush strokes in the finished job as best I can and I Know the quality of the tools directly equates to the finished products. I have read most of the info from Interlux but hands on knowledge is often more reliable. Any info, products and brands, would be greatly appreciated.

[Hooper]

Hey Brian-

How are you making out with your deck work? I am beginning the prep work today with this good weather. I realisically won't be painting for quite some time until the weather really warms but I am interested to hear how it is going for you.

-Hooper [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Bryan
I would recommend a foam roller that can handle epoxy paint. you can get them at marine hardware shops looking for a ¼ max 3/8 “ thick roller. I liked them depending on the job from either 4” or 6” wide nothing wider that that unless you are doing the outside of the boat and then with another guy who is doing the tipping with the brush. As for the brush you can get buy with good brushes of the first one or two coats. But on your final coat get the best quality brush on the market. I like the brush around 2 to 3 “ again on where in the boat your brushing. As for the non skid I didn’t use a brush I liked it bumpy and with the roller with the non skid that’s what you get I first did my boat with the find grit that’s not the way to go ended up redoing the non skid with 50 x 50 mixture of fine and coarse grid much better I also added more grit that what they recommended by about 50% extra grid. Remember you got to wet sand between coats and sanding removes a multitude of sins. Also remember the roller (on the smoother serf ices is actually putting on the paint the brush is to smoothe out the paint and remove the air bubbles. “don’t put a lot of downward pressure on the brush” oh on the primer I liked just using a roller on that as well remember you are going to sand between coats and sanding primer that has been rolled is better that sanding primer that has been brushed. If you have some scrap around you can practice first on a old piece of fiberglass sheeting before you tackle the boat itself. I did my center consol door a few times before I finally figured out some things. Good luck and remember if you mess up you can always sand smooth and do it again.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

[Capt Chuck]

According to the original post, It appears Bryan was redoing his deck the week of June 2003 [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] But just in case he hasn't completed it or for reference to anyone else doing non-skid to their boat, below is a tip to help you cruise thru the task. [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

I recomend that you use a two part paint as mentioned by others and follow Fellowships advise on the grit mixture.
The following picture will show you the roller I have used for years when applying non-skid as it has special "LIFT" LOOPS that create a uniform texture finish. It brings the grit to the center of the paint preventing it from settling to the bottom or laying on the surface. After masking off all areas that you DO NOT want the non-skid finish, it is wise to put up a splatter barrier along the sides, console and rub rail etc.
You can then brush on the non-skid paint mixture with a throw away brush. Do approx 2' x 2' area at a time and then come back with this special roller and smooth out your paint. Each time you brush on a section "roll out" the section before along with the new section thus preventing "overlapped" marks and "lumps"! [img]/images/graemlins/blush.gif[/img]
This roller is made by Shur-Line and can be found at Home Depot or specialty paint stores. You can cut it into (3) 3" sections and use the mini rollers for the tight areas. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
Good Luck!

[thedink9]

Bryan

If you are going to use the Interlux polymeric non skid additive, just be sure to exactly follow the instructions as the polymeric material actually absorbs the paint and that takes time (10 minutes or so) to occur. I used a foam roller and achieved good results.
Dink

[Bobby23]

Bryan, I have seen many jobs done different ways and they all had different results. I have been told by pros that badger hair brushes are the best but china bristle works well also. In my opinion better brushes and rollers are a small part of a quality job and it is more important to follow your paint manufacturers instructions. When rolling and tipping you are just putting the paint on and knocking out the bubbles with the brush and then if the paint is the proper consistency it should self level. I repainted my boat with someone rolling in front of me on a hot day and as time went by some of the reducer would evaporate causing the paint to thicken and it would not sag enough to remove the brush strokes. As we were painting I could hear the roller start to stick and knew to add more reducer. In hind sight I would have rolled so that I knew what the paint was doing, and there isn't much to tipping as long as all areas are covered lightly. My experience is with AwlGrip and I understand interlux is more forgiving.(If its too thick it won't level, too thin it sags and runs easily, just right it will be like glass.) As for non skid, paint the surface on a windless day and then sprinkle it on. When it dries clean the surface and repaint. If you mix sand in the paint whenever your roller goes over where it has allready been the non skid will be twice as thick. Sorry this is so long but be carful and you will get a great finish.

[Bobby23]

Bryan, I just remembered if it is possible paint the non skip surfaces first to get a feel for the paint. Good luck!