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#1
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I am remodeling my console and found something strange. Tell me if its me or the wiring. When I turn on the nave lights the bow, stern and light on top of the T-top comes on. When I turn on the anchor light the stern light comes on. I always thought that the anchor light is the T-Top light, which is an all around light. And why would I have a blower switch on an outboard???
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Wasn't there, ya didn't see me, ya can't prove it! [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] |
#2
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In a perfect world, you would want the t-top light to act as your anchor light since it's up so high and the most visible. Why not rewire the switches? Or go one step further, rewire the switches and add a t-top light that's a combination nav/anchor light and get rid of the seperate stern light.
Blower switch - are you sure your boat wasn't an I/O in a previous life? |
#3
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Thats a thought. Im pretty sure it's an outboard. Must have been built on Friday.
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Wasn't there, ya didn't see me, ya can't prove it! [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] |
#4
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The blower is probably overkill, but the gas tank is in the bilge and the possibility of fumes is there. I know the liklyhood of igniting those fumes is even lower but anything is possible.
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#5
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I have mine on 2 switches. On my old set-up nav lights would light the fwd side of the t-top light, and the bow and stern light. Then anchor switch would 360 the t-top light.
I couldnt get that to work for some reason with my new switches so I now have the anchor light on top 360 that I also run when nav lights are on to give me the fwd white running light on the masthead. Its 360 so I really dont need that seperate stern light but I run her anyway. Someone coming up behind me will see to white lights vrs one. One low and one high.
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#6
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Thanks, I think I will go the two switch route. Now I just have to tell the engraver what to put on the new switch panel.
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Wasn't there, ya didn't see me, ya can't prove it! [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] |
#7
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Just go with one three way switch-------> up positon(anchor); middle position (off) bottom position (running light) [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#8
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Don Battin Pipe Dreams Marine "Design her right, Build’er well Bend the throttles, And let’er eat…." Carl Moesly |
#9
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![]() Wiring the nav lights amd the anchor light correctly in a single (3) way switch is the way to go. A buddy and I tried to do it for an hour - every option conceivable ( except the right one ), and could not get it to go. Finally, we broke down and asked a boat electrician friend - and he explained it in (2) minutes !!! I works perfect. I would have never figured it out on my own !!! alan |
#10
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Don, but as good as she rides I feel like Im running a 500 ftr !!!! The stern 180°light is down pretty low, maybe 3' off the waterline where my actual masthead is probably 12/13 ft off the water. Those blue seas switches I liked and purchased didnt have the 3 way switch so I opted to run them on the two. Like Allen I screwed with that thing a long time !!!! So if I get ticketed or something in the future Don I will bow to you and let you tell me "I told you so !!!)lol
Allen- I havnt forgotten you either- I just cant get mama to go to the mailbox for me yet- will send it saturday!
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
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