Transom replacement on I/O

[EBEACH]

Anyone,

Looking for input in regards to cutting the deck cap on my 23 I/O, or to remove the whole thing. From what I can tell, I can just cut the cap on the hull side, and remove the arch across the transom to gain access. I'm thinking the best place to cut would be across the hawse pipe to limit the repaired area.

The other option would be to remove the whole cap. I know its not feasable to do on a 20, but the 23 looks do-able. Looks like it will come apart at the console

An outboad model might be differnt becasue of the splash well but it looks possible on a inboard or I/O. Will the hull shape blow out like my torsion axle on the trailer? Is it too big and cumbersome?

Thanks

[Capt Chuck]

I asked Otto the same thing but never got an answer, what the heck is that white stuff on the ground that matches the gunnels [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] That brown canvas won't cut the mustard [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] You need the "Green Gucci" next season! You can get it from Scott Scott M if he will part with it next year [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

Heck, I'm going to pop a cool one and go in the pool [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[EBEACH]

Capt,

Very cold water [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

[Dave Hirshberg]

Jim, It might be a lot of work but I don't see why you couldn't take off the cap. The only place its attached is the two bulkheads at the floor with putty and probably some putty at the deck drains and golbs on the stringers between them and the floor. Sure would make it easy to get to the transom.

[EBEACH]

Dave, Not the actual deck, but the cap on top, around the perimeter of the boat. It's just a shoe box fit around the top isn't it? Not really sure how the vertical section of the cabin meets with the deck.

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA EBEACH
I have the CC with a notched transom so some of my info might not apply to your specific case but here we go anyway. I cut my cap where your red line’s show write in the middle of where the tie off ropes go through I thought like you easier to work on in that area to put back together. It gave me more than enough room to do the transom.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[abl1111]

Cut it where you drew the lines. It's the way to go. Comes right off after removing the rub rail, cutting the silicone, and removing the deck to hull screws.

Then the fun begins ! Use a grinder as a cutter and cut the glass along the entire edge of the transom - along the sides, top and bottom ( use the tool to cut smaller pcs of f.glass )- then remove this glass by pulling and wedging screw drivers, Wonder Bars, crow bars etc.

Then, set a circ saw blade depth 1/4" short of the depth of the transom thickness and start making small manageable squares. Remove w/ aforementioned tools. Include a sawzall for fun.

I cut back the fiberglass stringers about 10" from transom. Down low by the chines is the toughest place to get the wood out from. Then grind the inside glass transom flat.... This whole process took me 9-11 hours.

[Dave Hirshberg]

Jim,
I understand what you're asking now. Yes the cap is only connected to the foredeck and cabin bulkheads and not the floor. There are 4 trim peices that cover the screws that hold the cabin bulkheads to the floor liner. You should be able to remove the rubrail screws and the bulkhead screws and lif off the cap since its not bonded to the transom like the outboard. Heres the pic of the seam I'm talking about with the trim removed. Also that fwd V shaped bulkhead door just slides into a moulded slot in the liner and is not attached to anything.