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#1
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I am now at that point in my project where the sanding and fairing begins. From what I hear this is the worst part. I am a little loss as to where I should begin, can you guys give me a total run through on what to do and the best performing components such as fairing material, what grit sand paper, etc? I plan on doing all the prep work myself and then I am going to have a friend spray the hull with awl grip.
Thanks, George
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20 SEACRAFT SF / 29 SEA VEE F.S.U. / REEL SWEET FISHING TEAMS |
#2
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The first thing to do is go to the grocery store and buy one case of Beer.
[img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] The West Systems has a booklet on Fairing you might want to pick it up. You will want a orbital sander and a mask to keep the stuff our of your lungs. You might want to use a body suit if you don’t like to take 2 showers at the end of the day with lots of scrub rags. Then more beer. As to more advice we will need to know what materials you are working with epoxy or polyester and what you are working on. I read ALL of the west systems booklets twice before I started did my stuff with epoxy and the trial and error method. I burned out 3 sears orbital sanders and lots and lots of beer by the time I got done I knew how to work with epoxy and glass. FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] |
#3
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I don't know what material you have on hand , but for fine finish work ,I would recommend going with polyester glazing putty for the final fairing of any minor imperfections. The stuff spreads like soft butter , cures in less that a hour and sands very easily. It is available at any auto body distributor. My 2 cents. Dink
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#4
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george I can give you some insite, but I need to know if your working in polyester or epoxy? All of my work is in epoxy.
http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/ My hands have been bleeding from all the blocking that I have been doing. I've added LOT's of square footage to be sanded to this boat. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] I don't recommend any of the single part spot putties that 3M makes that you will find at the auto body stores. That stuff shrinks to bad. A 2 part is better, but I use Interlux's watertight epoxy for the little nicks and System 3's Quik Fair for the large area's. Forget mixing epoxy/microballons/cabisol. It's to slow and pinholes to bad. |
#5
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Im just gonna sit back and see how Generaider's and George's boat come out before i do anything. I've got the time and beeer.
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Wasn't there, ya didn't see me, ya can't prove it! [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] |
#6
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Don't you just love when someone asks a question and people respond asking for more imfo to help them and they never respond back? [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
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#7
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Sorry work has kept me very busy and out of town frequently. This is the first time I have been able to even go online and do more than check my email. All the work I believe is in polyester. I being a virgin to fiberglass work had hermco do the transom for me, and he said that he did it with all the original materials.
Thanks, George
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20 SEACRAFT SF / 29 SEA VEE F.S.U. / REEL SWEET FISHING TEAMS |
#8
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HeHe Glad to see your back George. What needs to be faired? 3M makes some pretty good stuff for fairing over polyester. As to sanding grits. 36 then 80. Then prime it. Then 180 and reprime. then 220 then paint.
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#9
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Warthog5,
My boat is a total redo, the whole boat is being repainted. After this weekend I am going to strip the bottom paint and finish the deck and some other holes. thanks, George
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20 SEACRAFT SF / 29 SEA VEE F.S.U. / REEL SWEET FISHING TEAMS |
#10
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Hi George,
Come by and talk to Roy and he will show you what uses and advice. Is the transome done? where are the Pics?? By the way skip the beer until you are 21!!!! It was good to see you and your Dad...we are still painting away to get it as good as we can for painting outside. Bill |
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