Thru hull ducer - revisited

[Rich]

So I got a new fish finder, A raymarine Ds600x with the thru hull ducer. My plan is to flush mount it, the high speed fairing block is a monster and wont work well for trailering.

My plan is to do something similar to this:

Thru hull ducer

I was thinking that I could create a fiberglass shell of the ducer and then cut it into the keel stringer right in front of the livewell. Secure it properly with epoxy and glass, and fair it appropriately.

Should I consider moving it off center the keel stringer? If installed right down the keel, will this affect performance of the engine if it is flush? Also should I drop it a 1/4 of inch or so to be in cleaner water?

Any suggestions or comments?

Thanks,

Rich

[ScottM]

Rich,
You may want to read this post about the DS600. It could change your mind about the unit. This guy's an engineer for WHOI so he may be overly picky, but something to think about nonetheless especially if you want to use manual mode.

http://www.flyfishsaltwaters.com/ubb...c;f=5;t=002023

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Rick
I have the 23’ CC and did what you are talking about on my transducer I used the Fureno 600 unit though. I cut through the center wood stringer like you are talking about then cut the football hole out of the bottom of the boat like you are talking about at the center line. I did not make a mold like you are thinking of I used a template of the football and cut fiberglass sheeting that was approx ¼ “ thick and about 8” x 12” long I cut about 4 or 5 of them cut the football hole out the middle and then epoxy them all together. Giving the same effect as you are talking about. Only difference they fit in the inside of the boat. On the top one I just had the hole big enough for the nut to clamp onto. I put glass clough over the top of the little box and epoxyed it all in place on the inside of the boat. On the bottom of the boat if fits flush with the boat bottom on the top or inside of the boat the rest of it fits in place I used 4200 to seal it up and it’s done. IT WORKS GREAT. Shoots straight down and I get readings at 40 mpr no problems I also can reed the bottom at 1500’ on a unit that really isn’t designed to reed that deep. YOUR MOLD OR THIS WAY IS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT AND YOU WILL BE VERY HAPPY WITH HOW IT WORKS. You don’t have to be concerned about the stringer as far as support to the transom it is to small to make any difference as far as the transom goes and you don’t have to worry about any flex either.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[Capt Chuck]

Rich

I cut thru the center stringer between the front of the bait well and the rear of the fuel tank. It is flush with the bottom of the keel and my bottom machine prints perfectly at all speeds
I sent you a PM on the steps that I took that were given to me by "other tom"

Here some pictures

Cut out center stringer and Tx hole


Glassed in Tx tru Hull


Flush Mount Tx at the center keel

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Here are a few examples of what it could look like (this is a 31’ SeaVee boat)


http://www.cyberangler.com/photos/wa...ee-6-25_02.jpg

http://www.cyberangler.com/photos/wa...ee-6-25_03.jpg
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Shoot I forgot to talk about the beer factor.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

[warthog5]

Rich Seeing as how I have a little experiance with this. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
I would suggest that you copy the shape of the X-ducer in wood on a bandsaw. Use that to make your fiberglass box off of. I had the high speed fairing block that I made the plaster mold from. I have sence sold the fairing block.
One thing about that plaster mold for the B-260 Airmar was it had no draft to it. In order to get the plaster plug out of the mold I had to drill 3 holes thru the top with a holesaw and drive it out with a piece of cut off broom handle. Yes the plaster was primed and waxed and I sprayed it with PVA also.
It reallu wasn't a big deal, because I haden't finished all the layup.
If I were doing it on your boat with the stringer down the middle I would sister 2 pieces to the outside of the stringer and tie it into the box. Just shim the sisters out enough so that you have enough room to get the nut on the X-ducer stem between the sisters.
Now on my boat it will have braketed twin outboards so the centerline deal is not a problem. I don't belive that you will have problems with that and your single, as the water shouldn't be disturbed.

[Rich]

Thanks everyone for the good advice. I made a mold out of wood, layed up and epoxied four - five layers of fabric, cut my stringer accordingly, and an epoxy - cabosil mix is sealing it in place. More fairing next time out.

Thanks,

Scott,

We shall see if the Ds600x is worth the trouble, hopefully it is. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img]

Rich

[warthog5]

Need Pix's. [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]