Floor Core Material?

Bigshrimpin · #1 11-02-2004, 01:11 AM

Anyone know if the original floors are cored with the same 6" x 6" marine ply blocks the as the deck and hatches?

abl1111 · #2 11-02-2004, 07:35 AM

I always thought that the floor was end grain balsa. But, I'm not sure. If I were you, when re-coring that hatch w/ plywood ( which is what I did - 3/4" ), I would leave a 2" area around the entire perimeter ( where the screws will re-attach the hatch to the floor ) void of plywood and just build it up the voided sides w/ 3-4 extra pcs per side of mat.

This way, the core will never get wet again. And it will be strong as hell! Mine came out great and I knwo I won't ever have to look at it again. Wasn't it fun removing that old core ?!

FELLOW-SHIP · #3 11-02-2004, 10:15 AM

MOST OF THE DECK IS END GRAIN BALSA BUT AROUND THE C.C. THERE IS A STRIP OF PLYWOOD.
FELLOWSHIP [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Bigshrimpin · #4 11-02-2004, 10:58 AM

Thanks guys . . . I never has the opportunity to see the original floor or hatches on my boat, which is why I was asking. The pic actually came from strick's collection of photos. I'm thinking about doing the square thing in a giant mold for the new floor.

Scott · #5 11-02-2004, 11:43 AM

MEMORIES …….

Like FellowShip said End Grain Balsa…..Well end grain "mush" here [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

Just had to keep opening her up till I found dry core !!! [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

thedink9 · #6 11-02-2004, 09:09 PM

Forgot the year of your boat but my 85 had the same squares of cyprus (I believe) plywood in the hatches as in the floors. I replaced with Core cell in the non stress areas and marine ply where the console and T Top attached. Dink

Ed · #7 11-17-2004, 08:11 PM

Big Shrimpin-

What kinda resin are you using (epoxy, polyester or vinylester)???? If you're thinking about replacing the floor with plywood squares...go with the epoxy.

If you're using polyester or vinylester...you may want to consider Divinycell (it is pre-scored...so you can easily cut it into 6"x6" or 4"x4" squares. You may also want to look at this product called Coosa board that a lot of guys over on classicmako have had good luck with. They make at least two versions...the heavier duty version has woven-roven and mat weaved into it.

Of course...you can always use Nida core too like Jason did.

-Ed-

Captn C · #8 11-18-2004, 08:10 AM

Why would you want to make little squares? Why not just leave the sheet whole?

RS · #9 11-18-2004, 11:22 AM

Quote:

Why would you want to make little squares? Why not just leave the sheet whole?

Squares are supposed to be used with crosscut wood pieces (like balsa). This is the most rigid form of wood construction. However, you can’t get a big sheet of that material (it's like cutting 1/2" pieces off the end of a 4x4).
Also, as an added benefit, the epoxy between the squares prevents moisture infiltration to adjacent wood.

Ed · #10 11-18-2004, 01:04 PM

One key feature of the squares in to ensure good adhesion between the core and the laminate. If you took a large piece of plywood and laid it down in a wet laminate there is a good chance that you would get sections with less than adequate adhesion due to the woods inability to conform to the laminates original contour.

Divincell is available pre-scored on one side and is really flexible so there is really no need to cut it into squares but you can if you want to. The nida core and coosa board samples I have seen were not prescored so you would have to cut them.

From personal experience with helping install a new divinycell core in teh floor of a large 31' center console last winter....I found that keeping the core sections small (not necessarily 4"x4" or 6"x6" - but you get the idea) made them easier to work with and trim when necessary.

-Ed-