deck repair

cooppat · #1 02-08-2005, 10:31 AM

Now that I have my 1974 20' sf I am looking at the repairs I will need to perform, and first on the list are the two soft spots on the deck. At this point I am not ready to do a total deck restoration, I was going to do that when I repower and do the transom. But I need to repair the soft spots at the bow of the boat and at the rear drain area.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a temporary fix to get me by for a year or two? I know it isn't the right way to fix it but I am not ready finacially to do the whole deck.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...eacraftSC2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t/DSCF0008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...arsoftspot.jpg

JW-Tex · #2 02-08-2005, 01:52 PM

I have not used this technique but have considered it. If the wood underneath is soft & dry you can take a circular saw and set the cut depth to just cut through the fiberglass. Make checkerboard pattern cuts over the soft spot and then use epoxy resin with the longest cure time available (so it will soak in). Build a ridge around the area to be repaired with duct tape to prevent the resin from running all over and put the resin on the deck (make sure the deck is level). The resin will be absorbed into the soft wood and strengthen it. Peel the tape up and use an orbital sander to sand back down to the deck, the cracks will be filled with the resin and wood underneath will be stronger. You can use a heat lamp or sunlight to get the deck hot prior to putting the resin on to help encourage the resin to spread deep into the wood.

I have not heard of anyone doing this but it seems like it would work pretty well to me…considered using it on one spot on my deck.

Anyone have opinions on whether this would be a good temporary fix technique?

edloh · #3 02-08-2005, 07:39 PM

i have used similar technique on repairs, the spot will hardened up but don't expect it to be like new. this would definately be a good temporary fix. use a Low Viscosity Epoxy. The low viscosity epoxy will soak in much better. you can get it with the West System or this outfit in NH,
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/

cooppat · #4 02-08-2005, 08:56 PM

Thanks for the ideas, was there a patricular product you used from the NH company? The bow soft spot above the hatch doesn't have any wood under the deck, should I try going after it from the bottom?
Have you ever heard of using preformed sheets of fiberglass in various thicknesses bonded to the existing deck with a west system or similar product and feathering out the seams and edges and epoxy painting over the entire deck? Would this work or am I way off base. Your method sounds like it would work well in the stern section, where the cracking and floor is over wood.

Thanks

thedink9 · #5 02-09-2005, 12:15 PM

Happiness
You probably don't want to hear what I'm going to say , but here it goes anyway. The cracking and flexing in both areas is due to delamination of the top skin (and probably bottom skins) with the wood between them. The wood has absorbed water and probably should be replaced. This is not a major job if you limit it to just the areas shown on the pictures, but neither is it the best way to proceed. The entire deck probably needs to be redone in the next few years. I had only a few soft spots in my deck and when I began to remove the top skin to investigate, I found the entire deck to be soaken wet, so I went about replacing all the wood, with a combination of marine ply and foam core. Since you want to wait a few years to tackle something similiar, here is how I would proceed.
I would start by taking a sounding with a rubber mallet to try to determine the extent of the delaminated area. I would follow this with a 1/4 drill with the bit taped off so you only drill down to 1/2" deep. Drill a few holes into the delam. area and see how wet the wood it. If it is really soaked, over a large area, the top skin should be removed and the wood replaced. If it is only damp you could try drying it out over a period of a few weeks with a combination of heat lamps and a few fans pointed at the holes. You could then inject thickened epoxy into the holes and apply a layer of wax'd paper over the holes and a few cinder blocks to weigh it down and you'll be good to go. Downside to this approach is that you will not be addressing a delam. of the wood to the bottom skin,so the deck might still flex, once your done, nor will you be addressing the cracking shown in your pictures on the top skin. If you need to remove the skin, mark off the area where the textured deck meets the smooth edge along the gunnel and take a circular saw with the blade set to not more that 1/4" and cut the top skin off. You will quickly find out how badly the wood is rotted. Remove the rotted wood, allow the area to dry with the help of a heat lamp, epoxy new material to the bottom skin, let it set up, then you can set the top skin back down, after you have applied at least one or two layers of 6 oz. mat over the entire inside of the skin to fix the cracking that you see on the pictures. Once this is done you could then sand the skin and epoxy it back down. Sounds like a lot of work and it is if your talking about the entire deck, but if your only talking about 2 -2x3' areas it should not take you too long. Good Luck Dink

cooppat · #6 02-09-2005, 10:36 PM

thedink

Thanks for the great advice, I will perform the test you mentioned and determine the extent of the delaminating. What type of epoxy products do you use? Has anyone used the sytem three epoxy? Has anyone tried the rotfix it is used to restore and harden wood? Do you have a good tip on fixing screw holes in the gel coat?

Thanks again for your help.

edloh · #7 02-10-2005, 09:30 PM

happiness,

rotfix is essentially low viscosity epoxy mix with 10% MEK.

thedink9 · #8 02-11-2005, 07:10 AM

Happiness

I used Poly resin for all my work. I bought it from Joe Merton in Springfield MA. Good quality! He has a web site (Mertons.com) and sells system 3 as well. Don't bother to try to harder the wood. It will be a waste of your time and money. The rear area in your pictures has been flexing for quite some time to give you the spider webbing shown. My guess that you will take that wood our with a scraper or putty knife, as it will be that rotted! I would put money on the fact that the water came in from the screw holes, improperly sealed on your pedestal seat(s). Does the deck under the starboard seat flex as well? If so, there is rotted wood under their also.

cooppat · #9 02-11-2005, 08:09 PM

thedink

Your right the deck is soft on both sites of the seats, I removed those the other day and they were poorly fastened and moved several times. I am finding lots of poor mounting and sealing issues elswhere. The previous owner didn't seem to take much care in these matters. I'm leaning towards replacing the rear section of the deck this season to fix the issues at hand. I feel it is going to be opening up a can of worms. Thanks for the advice.

SnoFoolin · #10 02-13-2005, 02:16 PM

happiness
-I am opening the same can of worms, have to deal with dog surgery, fuel tank so deck replace is out for now- keep me posted on the small areas fix plan- thanks.