"New" boat - bow rail removal - busted knuckles.

stevebrownell · #1 04-11-2005, 10:13 AM

First "real" post, long time site surfer. Took the plunge recently and picked up Blizzard's '72 20 I/O. Appreciate the advice from CSC members here, but could not find many posts regarding bow rail removal issues.

Has anyone been able to remove the machine screws that fasten the bow rail stanchions to the deck, especially the ones closer to the bow, where no underside deck cap access is available? I think some or all of the machine screws have nuts backing them up - when I start removing one, it will often times just spin in place.

I'm considering drilling out about 30 of the screws, but they are stainless, so that not my first choice. Might just take a angle grinder with a cut off wheel and cut them right below the screw head - a little gelcoat damage is ok, as the boat is a work in progress, and gelcoat repair is on the long list.

Also looking forward to the Newport area get together this summer...

Trayder · #2 04-12-2005, 05:12 PM

I think drilling the out is your best bet.

You could always add and access panel to get to the nuts?

Look forward to seeing you this August

stevebrownell · #3 04-13-2005, 08:47 AM

Trayder,

Agreed; right after I posted I decided to cut the stanchion bases off with a makita right angle grinder and a cut-off wheel. I'm about half way finished with the operation, but the snow we had in MA yesterday put a damper on things!

Will probably end up finishing the removal this week - thinking that I'll use a Dremel with a carbide bit to rout the degraded fiberglass from around the frozen bolts, remove them, and fill the holes with epoxy/filler mix. Just had to get over the hump of tearing into the gunwales - sort of a two steps forward, one step backrocess. No way a 30 year-old rail is going to give up easily.

Also looking forward to seeing people in Newport this summer.

Planning on taking pics on the restoration and posting them along the way.

Trayder · #4 04-13-2005, 07:26 PM

I am sure you were planning on doing it but just in case-

make sure after you fill the holes that you lay some glass over the repair. I will all but guarentee the filler will sag and make a depression in a year or so unless you lay some glass over the holes.

sailcat · #5 04-14-2005, 12:21 PM

the snow we had in MA yesterday put a damper on things!

Isn't this the middle of April?? I really enjoy living in Stuart Florida. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

stevebrownell · #6 04-14-2005, 04:43 PM

It's warmed up to a balmy 48 degrees this week. Believe me, the wife and I frequently weigh the pro's anc con's of moving - taxes in MA are ridiculous, the season is short, and our jobs are portable. Don't know why we stay sometimes. Oh, did I mention spending $1000+ for a snowblower in Feb. to clear 3 feet of snow? That was my new Garmin GPS this summer. NOT.

Anyway, thanks for the advice, I'll be sure to back them up with some glass or backing material prior to filling, there around 50-75 holes that need filling and cracks to repair, but I'm just going to do the critical deck stuff first, get the boat in shape for the season, and chip away at the larger projects next winter in my workshop (yes, it's large enough for the boat....)

and I promise not to ask ridiculous questions - some of you guys would put Rybovich to shame.

thanks.