Help with Battery Cable

Scott · #1 01-18-2006, 02:47 PM

What gauge battery cable did you use ( for a 200-250 hp motor).
I’m relocating the batteries to the console. However, and much to my dismay, they will terminate at a pair of battery posts in junction boxes in the transom. That so I can step down to a cable that will fit through my engine cowling.

Total loop about 26’ ….I was thinking # 1 gauge

Thoughts ??? Suggestions??? What did you do ??

Thanks in advance

Trayder · #2 01-18-2006, 05:32 PM

I used #2 on the 20 and my 25 Contender had #2 as well. Neither had battery posts in the stern and were both wired direct to the engines ground and the hot on the engine(s)starter. 1 wire from battery location to the engine and same for battery to the house bus bar.

Battery posts are nothing more than an additional connection and in my mind the less connections the better.

remove the factory leads and make new ones that are long enough to go from the Console to the engine. As for gauge I think #2 is fine but #1 is better.

You can get a great deal on Marine grade #2 waire from surplusunlimited.com

good luck and get that damn boat in the water!!!!!!

strick · #3 01-19-2006, 12:39 AM

If I remember right I used #1 throughout including to the battery switch.

strick

warthog5 · #4 01-19-2006, 01:33 AM

Jason, Did you modify the big rubber plug on the front of the lower cowl for your Suzzy? There is not a lot of room in there and it's designed for the factory lead's. then there is the spot were the cable slid's between the air box and the elec. box.

Trayder · #5 01-19-2006, 11:09 AM

Yes, Warthog, had to bore it semi-round very easy with the proper tools. The plug is a maliable rubber and it conforms very nicly to #2 wire. There are no clearance issues routing #2 to the ground/starter. This was suggested by the dealer as the batteries are in the console.

I was surprised you used power posts after all the care you took with wiring your boat.

warthog5 · #6 01-20-2006, 12:09 AM

HeHe 2ga may work fine like you said you did, but I have 2/0 cable's running from the console's to those power post's.

No way your gonn'a get 2/0 aka 00.

Trayder · #7 01-20-2006, 11:10 AM

Let me get this correct, you go 2/0 from the console to the power posts and then the OEM cable from the power posts to the engines?

Thats kind of akin to using a stainless fuel tank.....

hehehe

warthog5 · #8 01-20-2006, 11:48 AM

I've got one of those too. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] 90GAL.

The cable run is much longer than in a center console.
STB motor = aprox 22ft
Port motor = aprox 26ft
That's one way measurement's.

Trayder · #9 01-20-2006, 12:13 PM

I know, hence my reference, YOU ANIMAL!!!

now you get that boat wet too!!! for crying out loud

you, Scott, Ringleader, JohnR, and Otto, should start the GYC!!! the Garage Yacht Club

just kidding of course... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

warthog5 · #10 01-20-2006, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Garage Yacht Club

HeHe Now that's funny.

I have a big ticket item that's holding me up. The fly by wire control's from Tech Marine. I'm getting some help on this and that's why I have to wait.

I am actually going to put the boat in the water on Monday.
This is to swap trailer's. I got another new one on Wed. I couldn't get the balance right on the other one. It's going to be traded back in.

The new one is longer, has bigger I-beam's, went to 15in wheel's/Tire's and 4 wheel Kodiak's. It weigh's 100lb's more than the old on. New one is 1120lbs. I weighed it Thurs.