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Crazing above the hard chine
While putting on a new bootstripe, I noticed my unrestored '72 Seafari has crazing in the gelcoat just above the hard chine on both sides, beginning about 3' back from the bow, and continuing for about 6'-8'. I presume this is from hull flex over the years. Guy's, I know a little bit about engines and rigging and performance, but I know NOTHING about fiberglas and gelcoat, and epoxy paint, etc.
My transom and decks are solid, no soft spots or flexing apparent. I DO have separation between the liner and the hull in the cabin on both sides, to the point of having a 1/8" gap appear on both sides between the liner (at the cabin V berth)and the hullsides whenever I ride over a boat wake or other short and steep chop. I discovered this a couple years ago while my wife was driving in from 30 miles out and I was trying to get a nap. Is this indicative of a serious problem? Is it a cosmetic issue? Should I run in circles, scream and shout?
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#2
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Re: Crazing above the hard chine
Padre - my take is that's the start of some serious seperation, and is probably a cause to the crazing you noticed, caused as you guessed by hull flexure. Don't know if you've noticed, but CSN and I have had some discussions about Seafari 20 door frame problems, which I believe are of a similar cause, weakening of the hull/liner bond, causing a weakening of the re-inforcement that the liner provides to the hull, and vice versa.
Sounds like you've got a real seperation problem starting, which leaves each piece to stand on it's own, lesser strength, without the benefit of the mutual support each provides the other. I think you want to get that liner re-bonded to the hull, before tackling too much of the rough stuff. I would also suggest you look down inside the forward V-berth platform hatch. Look down and back, at the inside face of the lower liner walkway endwall (endwall of walkway between the berths) - I say this because I found serious seperation of the lower liner from the hull at this hidden inside point - where the liner was tabbed to the hull was completely broken free, and it was noticeable in the boat, an increased torsional looseness of the hull, particularly crossing chop, etc, at an off angle, as opposed to head on. All the parts have to work together, as designed, to maintain maximum hull strength. If winter up here would just go away, I need to get in there and take some pix, so you and CSN and other Seafari guys, can see what I'm seeing. Anyways, not a major problem, ie, not hard to rebond. Bill |
#3
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Re: Crazing above the hard chine
Quote:
__________________
Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#4
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Re: Crazing above the hard chine
Padre - my guess is that the forward wall to hull tabbing failed first, which then allowed the stresses to pass back to the berth platform to hull bonding, so that the berth platform is now free of the hull, to get what you described initially.
It should not be too much of a problem to re-tab the assembly, just remember to do thorough surface prep, sanding, try a scotchbrite pad to conform to uneven surfaces, get them cleaned and roughed up, do an acetone wipe, then place some resin soaked matt pieces in there. doubled or tripled, to redo the tabbing, maybe with some cloth on top. I guess I'd recommend epoxy resin, for it's higher secondary bond strength. Bill |
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