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Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
Greetings to all, I have been looking over this website and it seems like there is a wealth of information here that I hope to draw from.
I recently came across a 1972 20' CC and have always admired the SeaCraft lines. On one hand, I could easily be in a situation where I am way over my head if there are significant problems with the boat; but on the other hand the initial price is low enough where even if it was a total disaster it wouldn't completely kill me. I am going to take a good close look at the boat on thursday and wanted to see if anyone has any good advice on specific things to look for in this boat, in order to determine if I want to pull the trigger. Thus far I know, it is a 1972 with a 1983 200hp merc, the owner represents that the transom is solid (whatever thats worth,and the motor runs; however, it has been sitting on the side of her house since her divorce and hasn't been used. I don't really want to get involved with something that I am going to have to completely tear apart, at least immediately. If I could run her for 6 mos or a year before putting significant time and money into retoration it would be completely worth it. Any thoughts, suggestions or advice on what to look for is truly appreciated. Thanks in advance! |
#2
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
You probably want to move this to another forum.
In answer to your question the obvious things are the shape of the transom and deck, as well as the engine. Check the deck and transom for soft spots & moisture. Check the compression on the engine. Also, look at the shape of the gas tank and the elecrtical wiring. Good luck. Please feel free to take tons of pictures and then post them here. You will be amazed what the pictures reveal that you might not see the first time with your eye. Also, there are many members here who provide you with excellent feedback.
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#3
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
Jeffro welcome where are you located? maybe someone here could help you look at the boat.
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36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#4
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
Thanks, I am in South Florida. I do have a buddy going with me on thursday who grew up with a very similar boat, although I am sure there are big differences to owning a 1970's boat in the 1970's and owning a 1970's boat now. In any event I am going to check it out on thursday and if it looks OK I am going to make an offer that is low enough where I really won't get hurt regardless. I think the owner is really more concerned with getting out of her yard than anything else. If she sticks to her guns I will definately have evaluate it more thoroughly.
Sorry about the location of this post, I guess it's my first mistake, I am sure there will be more. Should I repost in another more appropriate section or is it pretty much too late? |
#5
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
Check the floor by walking every inch of it on tiptoes and kind of bouncing as you go. If there are any significant soft spots, you'll probably be able to feel them flex under your feet. With the motor at slightly tilted up, put a rod through the fixed tilt angle hole on the transom bracket, and lower the engine down until it contacts the rod going through from side to side. Now stand on the lower unit cavitation plate, and again, bounce up and down. Look for any signs of flexing in the transom as you do so. (Putting the rod through takes the weight off the hydraulics)
Pull all the spark plugs and examine them for color and deposited carbon. With all the plugs out, run a simple compression test on every cylinder. Compression on an '83 Merc 200 should be 100 - 140 lbs per cylinder, and no more than a 10% differential from highest to lowest reading. Unfortunately, a big carb'd Merc that hasn't been run in a while will undoubtedly need the carburetor cleaned out. The fuel jets are notorious for accumulating gum or varnish in just a few weeks of sitting. Often the motor will run, but will idle on only 4 or 5 cylinders, or idle okay, but develop reduced power because of clogged main jets. You can run Quicksilver PowerTune through the fuel lines with the fuel if you can find a bulk dealer in PowerTune. (I used to buy it by the gallon, but that dealer no longer sells Mercury/Quicksilver prodcts or outboards) Fastest way is simply pull the carbs and perform a cleaning. Doing all 3 carbs takes under an hour, including re installation. Look for signs of decaying wire insulation under the cowling. Aftermarket replacement wiring harnesses are available if necessary. Check the manual for alternator specs, and then check alt. output. ( I believe the early 80's V6 Mercs were either 6 amp, 10 amp, or 18 amp output. 6amp if you have the black stator, and 10 if you have the "green" stator, and 18 amps if you have the "red" stator. I also confess that I have no idea what those color designations describe. I know my '92 150 has a 6 amp alternator, though) At any rate, check these things.
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Common Sense is learning from your mistakes. Wisdom is learning from the other guy's mistakes. Fr. Frank says: Jesus liked fishing, too. He even walked on water to get to the boat! Currently without a SeaCraft (2) Pompano 12' fishing kayaks '73 Cobia 18' prototype "Casting Skiff", 70hp Mercury |
#6
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
Check the past sales on the for sale forum. This should give you a very good idea, on what the boat should be selling for.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#7
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Re: Questions about evaluating a SeaCraft
This one has been on and off craigs list and boat trader for the last 3-4 months.
Good luck |
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