Blower on O/B Seafari and other questions

McGillicuddy · #1 05-09-2008, 07:52 PM

Hope this question isn't too foolish

Assuming I need one, where can I situate a bilge blower on my O/B Seafari?

Starboard hatch is full w/two bats, switch and isolator, along with tilt motor, fuel/water separator and fuel meter, and every wire and hose passes through it, too.

Port hatch has livewell that I don't intend to use but I hate to cut out... splash well area seems awful close to the bilge... Any thoughts? Thanks

Also, do the storage bins in the cuddy come out or are they permanent. Is there supposed to be a bin for the forward cutout or does that just open to the hull?

Thanks - Gillie

Ed · #2 05-09-2008, 08:10 PM

You don't need a bilge blower for an outboard, because the engine is mounted outside and you don't have to worry about a starter igniting any vapors.

I am sure if you added one, it would not present any problems, but it would just be another thing to maintain or break, so I would just forget it.

castalot · #3 05-09-2008, 08:11 PM

as far as i know you do not "need" a blower on a ob boat they are primarily used to evacuate gas fumes before starting an inboard of io engine

Spidercrab · #4 05-09-2008, 08:47 PM

mr mcgillie
yo calafornie boyz needs a blower in da kabin of da sea farri cuz you smokin those wackis weedis.meemaw slap me in da pus fer pufin on one last sumer
bye sam

NoBones · #5 05-09-2008, 09:05 PM

I'm beginning to think, this is a drug infested
web site.......

yo dude, see ya, Ken

McGillicuddy · #6 05-09-2008, 09:18 PM

Roger that, Trident and castalot. I've been exploring the inner hull as much as possible with lights an mirrors and found old 3" vent ducts in there and said,"huh?" Even so a spark from crossed wires, wrench on crossing terminals could be a problem if fumes are present, no? I guess if fumes are present I probably have a fuel leak.

Awreddy got a blor in da kabin sam, she perdy tu

ain't no puffen on cali beeches neether cawz taint allowed bi lifgards

Bushwacker · #7 05-10-2008, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Port hatch has livewell that I don't intend to use but I hate to cut out... splash well area seems awful close to the bilge... Any thoughts? Thanks

Also, do the storage bins in the cuddy come out or are they permanent. Is there supposed to be a bin for the forward cutout or does that just open to the hull?

Gillie, the bilge on all SeaCrafts is ventilated via the scoops on gunnel or in side of hull because they never foamed in the fuel tank (believe this is a USCG requirement), but no blower is req'd unless it's an I/O model. On the storage/access issue, there is a fair amount of space under the splashwell that you can access if you put a WATERPROOF hatch there. I have my fuel filter, fuel flow meter, trim tab pump and bilge pump in that area. On starboard side, I dug out the foam between the stringers to make enough room for a second battery box, and there's still enough room for a stern anchor and about 100' of line. The bait well under port seat is also handy for dive gear and other storage. I put a round access hatch in port side of baitwell to access the space between the outer stringer and side of hull which is big enough to store several quart size bottles and a fuel funnel; I found several scupper plugs there which had rolled back on the shelf and thru the 1" gap between the shelf and side of the seats!

In the cabin, only the front hatch is open to bottom of hull on '72 & earlier models, to provide access for the hoses from the head. Later models have a gel coated box there; guess they must have used port-a-pots instead of marine heads on them. The side hatch compartments under the bunks are fairly small since there is nothing under them but foam and stringers.

Another potential storage area I discovered when installing the galley seat is the space under the shelves on side of cockpit - there's about 6" of space between the inner liner and side of hull, filled with foam. SSI makes some hatches that might be used to create some shallow storage lockers there. Can't use them in cockpit or cabin stepdown because the inner stringers are right next to stepdown and come all the way up to cockpit sole. Denny

McGillicuddy · #8 05-10-2008, 08:46 PM

Hi Denny, thanks for the feedback. I like the idea if putting a big hatch in that splash well just not sure if it will affect structural integrity back there. Recommendations on good WP hatch manufacturer? Also, I'd love to see some pics of what you did with port side live-well area. BTW, Great pics of the Biminis on the other post... Started thinking about the name -- was UNOHU Mr Moesly's 21? Original vanity plate?

Where does a fella get a navy top or convertible/fishing top? Thanks again for sharing some knowledge. Hope I can look you up next trip to FL. --Gillie

Bushwacker · #9 05-11-2008, 05:27 PM

Gillie - there's nothing structural in that splashwell; it's about 1/8" thick FG. I think Armstrong may have some hatches that they use for their brackets; the Hermco bracket uses a couple of the small round Armstrong hatches for internal access to flotation tank.

I actually made my own hatch; just put some 1" wide chrome brass trim with screws on one side around the piece of FG I cut out, and glued some 1/2" thick foam gasket material on underside of the trim piece that stuck out over edge of FG. Mounted some half round buttons on some 1/4" teak at the 4 corners of the hatch; then just compress gasket and rotate button over the trim piece to hold it down. Not as fancy as store bought hatch, but it worked and was watertight; just had to replace the gasket periodically, as it wasn't very durable. I added the oil tank to that space when I repowered. Have a slide show in photobucket that shows the old hatch hold-down scheme and same area after splashwell was cut away, as well as baitwell and top mods. Will see if I can post link to it here. web page You can click on the picture to stop slide show to look at details.

Regarding the top set up, any good canvas shop should be able to duplicate it. If you use original mount point for frame, it will fold down in front of windshield like original; you can also brace it off side of windshield as shown in an earlier post. This is important because bimini tops are notoriously "un-stiff" laterally! If you mount sun top on a track, when folded up it can lay down on top of windshield if bimini is down. If bimini is up, you can use the straps to tie folded sun top to bimini or slide back and lay it on transom. I wanted a large bimini that came forward of windshield so I have plenty of shade from all directions from about 9 am to 3 pm. We put the zipper for attaching the forward clear windshield-to-top filler about 18" aft of front frame, so the clear piece has same slope as windshield. Side curtains attach to front filler with velcro so it's relatively water tight.

The "Unohu" belonged to my friend Bob that bought it new from Carl Moesly; it was the display model in the 1965 Miami Boat show! At the time of that photo he was on his 3rd of 4 engines he wore out in that boat - he went diving almost every weekend, 12 months/year in addition to a couple of annual Bahama trips! Check the "Proud Owners" section on Carla's www.moeslyseacraft.com web site for more info on it.