Seafari Semi Resto..continued

fdheld34 · #1 08-08-2008, 08:36 PM

Just got finished with the hull and bottom paint...Wish I would of had the money to soda blast the bottom..but too much money for right now..Needs one more coat.I had the bottom painted and then of course it rained!!! .Hopefully this weekend (if it doesn't rain AGAIN) I will complete topside and non skid. Then install cleats, rod holders, outrigger bases hardware and bow rail with anchor roller etc etc..
Wiring will be coming up soon.
Does anyone know of a good marine wiring book that is more above a novice level that would be good to utilize in wiring the boat (guages, batteries, switch panel etc..also wire color coding for marine applications)??? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Fred

PRIOR TO PAINT

GETTING THERE..........

McGillicuddy · #2 08-09-2008, 12:45 AM

Hi Fred, Looking good! Dang that looks clean. I am just about done rewiring my 72 Seafari and am just hung up on locations for a couple of lights and a second bilge pump.

I took a while just looking at the existing wiring trying to figure out what had been done before scrapping it and starting fresh. I highly recommend 2 books to help you on your way. 1st is Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual" 3rd edition (2007). I got it for $32 on amazon.com.

The other is Ed Sherman's "Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems". Both are helpful. Calders' book being somewhat the Electrical Bible among boaters.

By the way my public library had both of these, I rented them for free before buying them for my collection. Also check out Blue Sea Systems online catalog. www.bluesea.com Their products are the cutting edge of boating electrical, and really they make foolproof systems that are easy to install and use. Their customer service is outstanding.

If your interested in in wire and terminals, fuses or whatever, check out www.Genuinedealz.com

Also the following link has Seacraft's wire coding from 1975 owner's manual
http://www.classicseacraft.com/broch...975/index.html

Good luck

--Gillie

Bigshrimpin · #3 08-09-2008, 08:27 AM

Great Looking boat!!!

Mcg - Here's one mod that I've really enjoyed on my seafari. Left the factory switches and put breakers on the side. Used the old volvo wiring harness to run power to the front and 7 circuits back to the transom and put terminal blocks on both ends. Also installed a LED cabin light and a switch right above the breakers (not in the picture).

Islandtrader · #4 08-09-2008, 10:55 AM

Looks good.

Go to this old link for some good information.

Wiring CSC

fdheld34 · #5 08-09-2008, 12:27 PM

Thanks for all the info and ideas...raining in Pt. St Lucie so think I will make a trip to the library..better that staying home...might get sucked into helping out with house cleaning

gofastsandman · #6 08-09-2008, 02:42 PM

Hey Fred,
Looks to be in very nice overall condition. Classic color too.Time to vaccuum. I got sucked.
GFS

gofastsandman · #7 08-09-2008, 02:53 PM

Gillie,
I rember Fr Frank saying you definately want a pump in the cuddy. Lowest point.

Bushwacker · #8 08-09-2008, 04:51 PM

Lookin' really sharp Fred - Nice work!

Here's another way of providing access to back side of instrument panel - just put a piano hinge at bottom of cover and a couple of nylon latches at side. It can be opened quickly and provides complete access to everything.

I've tried mounting several different lights on cover over the years but the simple stick on battery powered LED light from HD is the best yet and makes a great reading light. The round thing is antenna for GPS speedo - it still gets a signal there, and I didn't want to drill a hole in the cabin top!

One tip on the wiring that will save running a lot of wires up to the IP from back of boat. Put one common ground buss at the IP and another at back of boat for aft mounted accessories like trim tabs, bilge pump, stern light, etc. I retained the 2 panel mount fuses in the dash and then added a 6 fuse block behind the IP. To simplify the wiring run, I installed a 10' length of smooth PVC hose (diameter was either 1.5 or 2" - used the biggest that would fit) up in the highest part of the coaming, above the rod holders, and then ran a loop of nylon cord thru it and along the outside as a messenger line. Then just use masking tape to attach wires to the line and pull 'em thru. Left the line in there for future use. Also, I ran the DS transducer wire down port side to avoid any potential interference issues. Was able to put it up behind the outdoor carpeting on the side storage pockets. Good luck with the remaining resto! Denny

McGillicuddy · #9 08-09-2008, 06:25 PM

Hi Dennis, I was contemplating the tubing for wire but wasn't sure if it was a safety issue. You mentioned pvc hose, why not white pvc pipe or grey electrical conduit I presume the pvc hose is that - like clear vinyl hose. Like the messenger line idea, too. The DS transducer away from every thing else is a good idea. I had considered that but was trying to avoid crossing the cuddy but after hearing it again you've swayed me to run it down the port side, I have all around light and deck light going there into the rod arch, if I ever finish that.

Sandy, the bilge pump in the cuddy - do you mean in the bilge under the cuddy or in the cuddy itself. I have about 6 drain holes in the corners of the cuddy floor that I'm pretty sure drain to the bilge.

Bigshrimpin, I like the access panel. Mine is currently set up like Dennis'. I kept the switches but got a Blue Seas ST Blade Fuse Block with 12 slots and neg bus. I like it. It's concise and easy to work with and everything is clearly identified. I have pos and neg mini-buses in the stern locker to run 24hr leads for auto bilge.

Oh, yeah Fred, that scream and fly electrical article is also very helpful. Not being an engineer,I personally like real pics to help me understand schematic diagrams. I think that is where Charlie Wings boat wiring book fell a bit short with me - too many scematics not enough pics - although others think its fantastic.

oldbluesplayer · #10 08-11-2008, 12:12 AM

Hey Fred -

That seafari is really looking beautiful - love that color scheme - I almost went with dark blue myself, when I did mine, but ended up deciding to just do the bottom, and leave the hull side the original red.

I'm betting you're going to find that 135 Merc to be a real good motor for that boat, too.

Wiring.... yeuchh... still gotta do mine. Did a minor warm over last year, but still have a 30 year old rats nest under the console.

All good stuff - keep it coming !!!

Bill