I have a leak

[eggsuckindog]

And no I can't get at it much - OK it appears to be leaking on the outside of the port stringer, it comes over the top so I guess no weep hole. The baitwell is in the way so I really can't get in there but the only 2 places I can think of are - the baitwell ( no fittings on the outside) or the scupper. I have inspected the scupper tube and it does feel fine on the inside. Need to figure a way to check that scupper better - plug from outside and run, see if still leaks - plug from outside and put water inside the boat and see if it disappears maybe. I thought it was the baitwell but re-sealed all the interior corners and sides as there were some cracks. Not too bad but annoying

[McGillicuddy]

Hey ESD,
If indeed the leak is from the scupper area, it may be in the seal at the flange rather than the tube itself. If you plug the tube w/ a regular 1" expansion plug and still have the leak, logic suggests that the leak is occurring between the tube flange and hull itself. If it doesn't leak, then I guess the tube itself has a crack or pinhole or whatever.

Either way remove and replace. If its been wet a while you'll probably need to soak the wood block with alcohol to dry it out and then strengthen and seal with Git-rot or similar epoxy before replacing the scupper tubes.

Flanging tool from Moeller is about $35 and tubes by Moeller or Sea Dog are $4-5 each. I could not find them locally but I found them at clrmarine.com and firstchoicemarine.com much cheaper than others.

I'm sure you've seen their threads, but C-sicknick, bushwacker, and Bigshrimpin all documented their scupper replacements and they all did it differently. I bought the stuff but I haven't replaced them yet because I'm still debating why I shouldn't eliminate them altogether and glass over the hull as I think lost2a6 did. Good luck!
-McGill

[Bushwacker]

Dixon - if it's a scupper leak, it's probably between the brass tube and the hull. Sometimes the flared ends deteriorate over time and allow a leak to develop. If you can get a hose up over the outboard stringer with boat level on trailer, you can probably fill up the area between chine and stringer with water and you might see some water seeping out between hull and stringer. Fix is to remove and replace the brass tube, but if the wood block between hull and inner liner is soaked or rotted out, you'll have to dry it out with alcohol first and then maybe fill it in with thickened epoxy and redrill the hole like I did. Denny

[eggsuckindog]

AAAHHHH HAAAAA - I found it- can't tempt the keys crazy chit happens there as its in the Bermuda Triangle - so it turns out its the drain tube for the baitwell much better than the scupper. Checked the Bildge pumps both working and the auto switch as well, was worried leaving it in the water.
A quick isolate and eliminate check list - plug the baitwell from the outside - fill, empty's somewhat quickly into bildge - still could be a leak on the inside of the baitwell as there are some cracks that had sealer on them, that I resealed - meaning this isn't new to the boat.
Dry and place Duct tape over inside of the drain and the fill nozzle that I can see in the bildge and wasn't leaking but did it anyway - every orfice.
Water held just fine no problems - pulled tape from fill - no water, as expected - plugged the outside of the drain and placed bucket to measure any drips and pulled the tape off the drain on the inside - RAN SLAP INTO THE BILDGE AS SOON AS WATER GOT INTO THAT TUBE - ISOLATE AND ELIMINATE IS YOUR FRIEND.

OK I mis-spelled bilge 5 times and I'm not fixing it - screw off before you even say it

[BigLew]

EggSuckingDog;

I believe it is Fr. Frank that that says;

"A Smart man learns from his mistakes.

A Wise man learns from the mistakes of others."

You are officially now a Smart man!

[eggsuckindog]

Now I have to figure out how to fix it without a flaring tool - not even sure how those things come out - just grab rip and pull ??

[Bushwacker]

Good job of tracking down that leak Dixon! Not sure of what sort of access you have on MA baitwell, but if the tube is brass, they're pretty soft and usually pretty corroded by the time they start leaking. If you can get a cold chisel or screwdriver on edge of flare, you can usually push tube in enough to get some needle nose pliers on it. Then you can just twist it enough to reduce diameter, and should be able to pull it right out.

For flaring tool, I've used 1/2" threaded rod with nuts, washers and a tapered 1/2" drive socket to get the flare started. Then you can finish with a ball peen hammer. Maybe not as pretty as a flaring tool but it get's the job done. Just be sure to bed it with lots of 5200! Denny

[Bigshrimpin]

I fixed it mine with PVC and 5200 and then made custom 3/4" rubber drain plugs. Stay on a mooring most of the summer last year with no leaks. Helps to heat the brass tube before you flare it . . . if you decide to fix it that way.

[eggsuckindog]

Well upon further review - I had the idea of maybe using a thru hull fitting - the dive platform bracket is just right slap up against it, I did see they had put some sealer in the tube. So I either find a flaring tool which Mike doesn't have or I will try your method Bush - problem is I don't have 1/2" drive sockets but I may have something that will work - I'm pretty cleaver that way. I'm doing some T Top extra feet maybe that guy has one which would be easier.

Isolate and Eliminate -- kinda like your truck keys