![]() |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
With the events that have taken place over the last couple weeks the boat is in my shop and I'd like to make a few modifications before I take the boat back up to the lake next year. Is there a source for something other than the plastic/nylon through hull drains in the floor? Is it possible to install brass? Is rule a good bilge pump..the one that I had in it was a rule and for some odd reason the whole top of the unit became displaced, checked it earlier this season and it ran but I never had any reason to use it until I started taking on water last weekend. For peace of mind I'll be installing two pumps before she goes back in the water. I have a high water alarm light on the left side of my switch panel, does anyone have any idea where the sensor would be located or was this something installed afterwards. Sorry about the pile of questions but most likely more are to follow.
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Quote:
http://www.clrmarine.com/m4_view_ite...E%20021003400D You will need a flanging tool to flare the un-flared end. http://www.clrmarine.com/m4_view_ite...MOE%2002070000 I am very happy with my rule pumps. Make sure you have a 3 way switch. Auto/Off/Manual On. Sensors on rules are usually integrated in the unit or a separate float is used. Some models have a automatic on that kicks on every 5 mins or so. I think that could be problematic if it drained the battery while moored.
__________________
there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I like the plastic fittings better than the brass. Easier to install. The brass fittings unless properly heat treated crack at the flanges.
I agree, Rule pumps are really good, no problems with the ones I have had on my boats, just make sure to use backups. ET |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I couldn't find plastic or marleon long enough here so I went original with brass. My brass went in very smoothly, but if I were to do it again I would probably go bronze like Csick Nick did, or stainless. I really like how flush the flanges sit, but the brass is only .030" thick. Works and fits perfectly but it will fail again. I did crack an end but due to over-tightening and too much excess. Further annealing won't hurt. If you go this route do not exceed 1/8" - 3/16" the required length.
You will also want to make sure the wood block that supports the cockpit is perfectly sealed and all rot is filled with epoxy. My wood blocks were the source of water ingress and as the wood shrunk as it dried, the bond to the original tubes failed. Do a "thru-hull scupper" search dating a few years and you'll find many scupper write-ups and fotos. Good luck.
__________________
there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
![]() |
|
|