Windlass mount support material Ideas

[abl1111]

The scenario: 23' Tsunami. I have had a Lewmar windlass mounted directly mounted to the deck of my boat for 6-7 years - with a pivoting anchor roller ( the windlass is the motor on top version ). Works flawlessly. I installed an oversized 1.5" thick pc of plywood under the deck for support - under the entire rig ( a be'atch too install and work on in the anchor locker )

This year, I noticed a slight flex on the top deck from the pressure of the windlass pulling on the anchor and possibly from leaving the rig tensioned all winter long ?!

Either way, I want to remedy. I was thinking of installing an oversized base for the windlass. Any ideas on what type of material would be best ? I was thinking teak or Starboard. If teak, what thickness would you think ? And what would be the best sealant to use to join it to the deck ? Or, the Starboard - my concern is that no sealant would bond well to it - for the deck/windlass joint or the windlass/starboard joint...

'Been there done that' input appreciated.

[Capt Chuck]

1/2" Aluminum Plate like they use on fighting chairs. Make sure you use 'Tef Gel' on the S/S Screws or Bolts that make contact with the aluminum

[abl1111]

Captain Chuck - Thx for reply. I'm looking for something to mount on the top of the deck and then mount the windlass to it to give a bigger footprint on the deck.

Also, I'll look into Tef Gel as I'm a stickler against ANY galvanic corrosion...

[BigLew]

With all due respect, may I suggest the following.

The point of stress in this case is below deck. To place a plate which is essentially the footprint of the windlass below the deck is counterproductive. What you should really consider is spreading the force pulling through the deck across a greater area. Allow the fiberglass to absorb and disperse the energy. Thus, what would probably be most effective is a larger plate under the deck.

I have much the same setup, however, I cut a ¾ inch plywood sheet into the same approximate shape of the deck extending 6-10 inches beyond the footprint of the windlass. I have the pivoting davit that you do and I have never noticed any significant deflection of the deck itself. In fact, I bent the shank of a 20+lb. galvi danforth about 4" with the pulling power of the anchor and windlass and there was no deflection of the deck. Yes, the anchor was replaced.

Just my 2¢. I hope it helps and good luck.

[abl1111]

I should have been little clearer.

The underneath support is (2) 3/4" pcs of ply glassed together - 1 1/2" thick! and takes up almost the entire area of the anchor locker. It is not just the footprint of the windlass. It includes the anchor roller too. And extends way beyond the footprint of both of these deck mounted things. It's overkill, but that's the way I re-did everything on this boat.

I am pretty sure the underneath is not my problem.

There may be a slight soft spot from the old anchor line storage-thru-deck-hole that I closed when I put this rig on... But it was VERY minimum. The deck is solid ! The core could be slightly compromised in this exact area - this could be the issue though.

So, I want to increase the footprint on the top of the deck...

[BigLew]

To add to the description of my set up, I should have mentioned that I had purchased a 6/4" x 10" piece of teak. Ripped it into 6/4 sq. strips and laminated them together to make a pulpit for the windlass and davit. It is about 9" wide finished and both the davit and windlass are mounted on it. The only thing I didn't do was level it up for the molded "toerail." It is thus slightly inclined up over the toerail and seems to work well at shedding any water that would be prone to rest on it; rain/spray/etc. You might try something like that. It is very solid and, as I said, I do not notice any flex to date.

[abl1111]

Big - Got a bunch of questions:


I'm a novice with wood - what size is 6/4" ?
So you made a base of teak ? What thickness was the base teak and why did you rip it and then laminate it ? Is it stronger this way ? What did you laminate with - epoxy ?

What sealant did you use to seal the teak to the deck and the windlass to the teak ?

Did you have to buy longer studs for the windlass to go through the teak and deck ( I might have to 'cause I have that 1 1/2" under deck base )

[BigLew]

abl1111,

I could go into a lot of detail, but it would be more efficient if you just give me a call, cell- 978.363.5161. We can talk about it and I can help with any questions you might have 'live'.

[abl1111]

Ok, I'll give you a buzz. Thx.