89 18sf Project/rebuild/restore started

[alexh]

I've finally started tearing into the 1989 Seacraft 18sf I bought back in 6/11. The boat was "turnkey" and I took it out a few times, but at some point I knew it would need electrical work and a new deck. The hope is for a completed project by 5/12. The hull itself is in great shape, just oxidized so I will either wetsand or use a serious buffing compound, The transom is solid. The never ending list I have in my head so far goes as follows:
New deck - Same height/mg ply.
Recore removable gunnels/tank hatch/livewell hatch with composite (still TDB)
Rework console/repair spider cracks.
Complete rewire/new electronics/new hardware.
New paint inside.
Inspect fuel tank for leaks/excessive corrosion, replace if needed.
New leaning post.
New leaf springs on trailer
Ideally, I would like to repower with a late model 150hp 2stroke carb.

At time of purchase:



11/19 removing the console/hardware




11/26 removing gunnel cap




By the end of the day today I had the caps ready to be recored. I THINK I want to use some sort of composite here. Mainly because I've never worked with it before, and I think it would be a good area because of the curve/bend the caps make from bow to stern.
My main concerns are: I am sure they cored these caps while they were still in the mold. They currently still hold their shape to some degree as they are. My plan is to support their natural shape and core them, but I am hoping if they are off at all they can still be bent/twisted to fit the boat as needed. When I removed the caps today, they were still very flexible, but part of me thinks this is from the rotted core that was initially in there. Either way, I'm pretty sure itll all work out, but it was just something I noticed. Suggestions on coring material?? Im going to be buying it tomorrow along with fairing material for the spider cracks in the console/gunnel caps. I hope by the end of this week I can have the console ready for primer and the gunnel caps recored and topside ready for primer.

Ive started with the gunnel caps/console first so I can get a feel for priming/spraying paint before I tackle the entire inside. Thinking snow white interior and light blue/gray nonskid.


As always any advice/criticism/anything is appreciated.

[heynow2203]

As to recoring the gunnel cap be careful. Make sure it is straight before you recore it other wise you will not have any fun putting it back on the boat.
The coring I would consider all the options the composite material around your rod holders cleats etc. won't work so well you won't have any sopport you want the wood there or aluminum.
The type of coring I used on mine is core-cell and pensky board both are very good! just very costly but well worth it

[Bigshrimpin]

150GT:

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ighlight=150gt

[alexh]

Originally Posted by Bigshrimpin

150GT:

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ighlight=150gt

Part of me wants to hold onto the motor because it does run so good. On the other hand I do believe I could get a reasonable amount for it if I tried to sell it. All depends on if I can/cannot come across a deal on repower.

Still haven't decided on core material, but I'm headed down to the supplier this Friday, so ill have to decide between coosa, corecell, or nidacode, OR mg ply. I plan on bedding the core in thickened epoxy and a layer of 1708 over top that and calling it done.

The boat sat under a tree for 90% of summer which is why the boat is covered in black crap now.

[alexh]

1/2" mg ply came in today so I made up the coring for the caps. Composite would have been nice, but I really cannot justify the cost. Made a template out of 1/4" scrap, transferred the template to the mg ply and cut the pieces out on the bandsaw. Ran a 1/2" round on the bottom sides to match up with the inside radius and then cut the coring into 5"-6" sections.

Cleaned up underside:


Corner that will need some work once the coring is in. A final stripped screw led to me just ripping the cap off:


Coring fit and cut into place:


Tonight I picked up some 24/50 grit 7" discs to make short work of the nonskid. It was a pain with a 5" DA so this should help. Friday I am picking up 5gal resin, 25yd of 1708, fillers/putty/everything else I need for the time being. Should be a productive weekend if its windy or raining and I cant fish.
-alex

[gw204]

Originally Posted by alexh

1/2" mg ply came in today so I made up the coring for the caps. Composite would have been nice, but I really cannot justify the cost.

That's what I told myself when I was core shopping for the transom in my Mako. I originally wanted to go with a sheet of 1-1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, but couldn't bring myself to fork over the $400+ for it. Ended up spending about $150 for two sheets of 3/4" marine ply...and then didnt' get a good bond between them. Bought two more sheets and did it over... So, I ended up saving around $50. :-(


Looks like a great project. The 18 was no. 1 on my list, but I could never find one.

[alexh]

Originally Posted by gw204

That's what I told myself when I was core shopping for the transom in my Mako. I originally wanted to go with a sheet of 1-1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, but couldn't bring myself to fork over the $400+ for it. Ended up spending about $150 for two sheets of 3/4" marine ply...and then didnt' get a good bond between them. Bought two more sheets and did it over... So, I ended up saving around $50. :-(


Looks like a great project. The 18 was no. 1 on my list, but I could never find one.

Yeah, I know poly resins and mg plywood are on the bottom of the list for most rebuild materials used, but I've had good results with a previous project, and there's no reason why it shouldn't last another 20 years if done correctly. I REALLY like the layout on the 18sf as far as getting a little more toe room with the gunnel caps. I still would have scooped up a 20 if I had come across the same deal, though.

[alexh]

Pulled the gas tank hatch this weekend, while the gunnel caps were being worked. Same story, watersoaked core. Ripped out the coring and prepped the surface for new coring which will go in tomorrow evening.

HEAVY


coring:


45* edges were made with foam:


Once I pulled the tank cover, I noticed there was no coffin box for the fuel tank, and the tank they had made BARELY fits through the original opening. Tabs screwed right to stringers. Two bulkheads were installed and since its an original deck, they only glassed the tank side of the bulkhead because that's all they had access to. Ive already pulled one out by hand. Hopefully the screws into the stringers didn't let in a ton of water and they aren't saturated as well - we'll see this weekend. Still need to fill/fair the console and gunnel caps this week/weekend. If I find the time I plan on draining and pulling the tank, pressure testing it, cleaning and covering it in coal tar epoxy if its in good enough shape.

-alex.

[bly]

I have had one of these for a while but for many years could not see paying all that money. For removing old cores it is great. It is like using a small or miniature jack hammer. Not much dust. mostly solid pieces. You do have to be careful you do not cut into the glass of the hatch that the core is attached to. It is a leaned experience that I wish I learned along time ago. I still use a grinder but not near as much.

[hermco]

Air chisel with a nice fat flat blade kicks ass.