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  #1  
Old 03-19-2012, 09:34 AM
ct9amr ct9amr is offline
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Location: Riverview, FL
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Default Boat Polishing

Well the contender I bought a few years ago had some oxidation so I figured I would DIY the job and same some cash.

I bought the shurehold system complete with their compound last year.
It definitely works well and it was a lot of work but it brought the dark gel coat back to life.

http://shurhold.com/dual-action-poli...FbNk7AodLmGtKg

Fast forward to 2012 and I am back to oxidized gelcoat again and in doing a little research I tried the product below.



This 3m stuff worked much better and I used less of it.
It cut through the oxidation and it took me about 1/2 as long to apply and remove it.
Just passing this along to anyone who is in the same boat.

A coat of wax will follow to see if I can get it protected even longer between polishing.
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Glen
1996 23ft Contender 08 Yamaha 250 HPDI
1965 13ft Cacci craft skiff with 20 Hp tohatsu 4 stroke
1992 20ft Shamrock Predator (Hard Top) 351 FWC PCM Repower SOLD
First boat: 1988 17Ft Shamrock Open 3.0 Mercruiser RWC 140hp Traded
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2012, 10:17 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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Hey Glen, use the Colinite 920/925 pre wax/wax. Not cheap and it's a two step process but it's very good! TA Mahoneys has it.
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2012, 11:46 AM
Wildman Wildman is offline
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I love that 3M Imperial! Cant say enough about it. I did my boat first then on to my painted alum box trailer. Both look AMAZING after buffing down with that stuff. My 1972 hull was heavily oxidized before a couple of applications with the buffer wheel. The picture is after 3-4 passes then a couple applications of Poly glow. You can actually SEE a reflection now!

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  #4  
Old 03-19-2012, 12:54 PM
jerry1 jerry1 is offline
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POLY-GLOW works well for me
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2012, 05:02 PM
77SceptreOB 77SceptreOB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry1 View Post
POLY-GLOW works well for me
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  #6  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:34 AM
ct9amr ct9amr is offline
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Location: Riverview, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonV View Post
Hey Glen, use the Colinite 920/925 pre wax/wax. Not cheap and it's a two step process but it's very good! TA Mahoneys has it.
I will give it a shot!
Anything not to have to repeat this process yearly.
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Glen
1996 23ft Contender 08 Yamaha 250 HPDI
1965 13ft Cacci craft skiff with 20 Hp tohatsu 4 stroke
1992 20ft Shamrock Predator (Hard Top) 351 FWC PCM Repower SOLD
First boat: 1988 17Ft Shamrock Open 3.0 Mercruiser RWC 140hp Traded
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  #7  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:38 AM
FishMagnet FishMagnet is offline
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Ultima Paint Guard Plus is the shit. Wipe on and walk away. And it works well
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:41 AM
htillman htillman is offline
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Location: houston, tx
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Default Wax

After the Collininites prewax/wax, go over it with a coat of Collinites Insulator wax. Wax a 23 CC insite and out in less than 4 hours this past weekend, including the t-top.
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2012, 09:25 AM
ct9amr ct9amr is offline
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Here is a bad cell phone picture of the work.
Anyone have any products to use on the aluminum T Top for pitting.
I have read about Woodys wax.

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Glen
1996 23ft Contender 08 Yamaha 250 HPDI
1965 13ft Cacci craft skiff with 20 Hp tohatsu 4 stroke
1992 20ft Shamrock Predator (Hard Top) 351 FWC PCM Repower SOLD
First boat: 1988 17Ft Shamrock Open 3.0 Mercruiser RWC 140hp Traded
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  #10  
Old 03-20-2012, 06:42 PM
Mikem8560 Mikem8560 is offline
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Location: Charlotte Harbor Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ct9amr View Post
Here is a bad cell phone picture of the work.
Anyone have any products to use on the aluminum T Top for pitting.
I have read about Woodys wax.


I'd like to find somtjing also my t top fairly new. It the leaning post is older and need a. Eter shine
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