#1
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Setting wood core methods?
getting ready to set wood core to transome skin, im an using poly resin. should i simply make a paste and set it in to it or should i also add some matting material in between the core and outter skin? not going to go buy epoxy for you guys that are going to tell me to, sorry. just wanted to know what was the perfered method of install.
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#2
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Unless you really known what your doing, the bond will be poor. Even if you are pro, the bond will still be not even close to that of epoxy.
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#3
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ok you guys are killing me, So what if i buy 1 gallon epoxy and make a paste- adhear the core to the transom skin, then can i use poly to make the fillet and cover the front side of transom with glass to the rest of the boat?
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#4
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Redoing the transom is not something you want to do again in the near future.I would always use the best material possible.Think of all the wasted time,effort and money if the bond fails ( and it most likely will using polyester on wood)
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#5
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maybe, maybe not
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#6
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i see it like this, the boat was made of wood and poly resin, in 1971 it may or may not have had a transom in the past. i dont know for sure, even if it did it lasted at least twenty years! i will maticulosly grind and clean between any new application of glass and resin, i will add enought to make sure it is strong, i will pray! and why? because i already have 20 yrds of glass and 5 gallons of resin. and im not tossing them out. all i wanted to know was if i should add mat between the core and skin or just paste? or both?... thanks
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#7
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I hear you, but that does not change the physical characteristics of the materials.
Secondary bonding (mostly what your doing when rebuilding a transom) is SO much better with epoxy that you almost cant screw it up. When the boat was made you had very fresh resin (that was the same kind as used in the mold for the skin), its as good a scenario as possible. Please put this into perspective, the difference in cost to use the material that WILL ABSOLUTELY work is around $110 (difference in 5 gallons poly at 30/gal and epoxy at 50). That is just one days fuel bill for a boat that should last you decades if done properly. Do what you wish, just make sure you understand the compromises your making. You can always use poly to make parts, then bond them in with epoxy. Nothing at all wrong with that. Good luck
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http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
#8
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where is this $50.00 epoxy? all i find localy is west at $99.99 and 20.00 for hardner. i paid $20.00 for poly. thanks
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#9
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I just order my epoxy from AeroMarine in CA the last 5 years. I really like it's characteristics. Its a more reasonable price for what it is imho. It's non-blushing and a really nice viscosity for wood to wick up. It's about $120 for 1.5 gallons and pumps delivered, $215 for 3 gallons with pumps delivered, $420 delivered for 6 gallons with pumps delivered. It's really just my preference, there is probably something very similar local for you without the shipping. West System is just to pricey for my blood for what it is especially if you have to pay retail.
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Thank goodness that in the scheme of things you are broke, powerlesss and inconsequential, because with the shortsighted alternatives and idealogy you have you'd be much worse than those you complain about. |
#10
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Our store sells it for $160 for 3 gallon kit, we are in FL. There are more expensive brands but for what your doing the less expensive general purpose is more than adequate.
http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=41 Good, fresh, iso-polyester is going to be more than $20/gallon. If you see "boat yard resin" it is old leftover polyester, literally bottom of the barrel. Polyester has a shelf life too, its promoted before its packaged and is slowing curing unti l you add the catalyst (then it really cures).
__________________
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/ my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=22090 |
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