Soft floor on 23cc

[shrek]

Can anyone recommend a place on the Gulf Coast to have the floor on my 23 replaced? The local boat yards all want in excess of 10K, which seems absurd to me. I'm in New Orleans and willing to trailer the boat elsewhere if it makes sense to do so. What is the consensus on the cost of a floor replacement?

Thanks y'all.

[Bigshrimpin]

Is the entire floor soft? Or just one area? If it's just a small area, there's no point in ripping up the entire floor.

[shrek]

Port side from the front of the center console to the stern.

[kmoose]

It all depends on how you want it to look and be finished. For a factory looking floor 10k does not surprise me. If you would be good with a commercial finish in 3/4 nidacore I'd be willing to bet you could get it done for less than half that quote.

[shrek]

Anyone have any contacts along the gulf coast for this?

[FAS]

i am far away, but thinking 6 grand for both sides, a nice job, to come close to a match, to what you have.bty,what year?

[shrek]

She's an '84 model with twin 140 Johnsons. She was a one owner boat before she came to me via an estate sale. My mechanic guesses that the motors have less than 200 hours on them when I got her, but had all updates, i.e. vro pumps, etc. Even the transom is dry. The boat had a T top that was not well bedded and was the culprit for the leak that caused the rotten floor. The odd part is that the tank cover is solid as a rock.

[Get Sum]

Have you considered re-doing them yourself? I recently purchased a 1983 23' that had a soft spot in the floor, starboard side between console and leaning post. After cutting out the top skin, I found that the wood was wet and mostly bad/ soft all the way from the stern to the step-up. Curiosity got the best of me and I checked a small section on the port side (which felt solid as a rock) The entire port side had wet wood as well, not rotten- just wet. I have never replaced floors before, but I can honestly say it was pretty easy the way I went about it and only cost about $1,000 in supplies for everything. I made a cut 5/8 deep 1.25 inches from the perimeter of the floor. (1 side at a time). After making the cut, I peeled sections of the top glass off exposing the wet/ bad wood. The wood is all in 5"x 5" sections and came out easier then I thought using just hand scrapers and a hammer. I was able to get the entire core out of each side in about 4 hours (per side). This left the inner skin intact which is also glued to the stringers. After sanding the inner skins smooth my lay-up was as follows: 1 layer of 1708 Biax and 1 layer of 1 1/2 mat directly over the old inner floor skin. I used 5/8 inch marine ply as my new core and glued the core down with the (2) layers of cloth/ Biax. I then used several 5 gallon buckets filled with water as weights to weight down the wood until it cured overnight. Once everything was cured, I feathered the edges of the existing floor with a grinder, sanded down the core for prep and applied 2 full layers of 1708 biax cloth down as the top skin. This combination of material brought the height pretty close to exact of the existing edges and didn't need much fairing to get perfectly flush. I used 1 to 1 epoxy on everything which gave me plenty of working time. I am very, very pleased with how they came out. The floors are solid as a rock now! both sides and the coffin hatch took me about 2 weeks working only a few hours every other night after work. From what i have read, it sounds like I just saved about $5k-9K.