Hard Top Out Rigger Hole Repair

[abl1111]

I pulled (2) TACO outriggers off of my hardtop and have (2) 4" holes through the 1" thick nidacore with thin fiberglass glass/ gelcoat skin - there also (4) through-bolt holes per outrigger that held the outriggers in place.

What would you do to cover this ?

I've cut and routered (2) pairs of 1/4" starboard - a top and bottom to through-bolt and sandwich the hardtop, they are the perfect color match, but I'm pretty sure nothing will stick to starboard to allow this to be a water tight seal. Unless someone has done this and has had success with sealing starboard ?

I could use teak - ugly, or aluminum - also not as nice as the starboard. Or, I could glass this area ( a lot of work ! )

Thoughts ? Ideas ?

[kmoose]

Sand the edges and apply some 5200. It will stick and seal if there is no movement.

Also, I am looking for some Taco mounts and riggers for my top! What do you have and what would you take for them? Help a brother out!

[abl1111]

Hey Moose,

I had heard that heating the starboard changes the surface to allow for a better stick. Sanding makes sense for the mechanical stick.

I've always stayed away from 5200.. Have you tried it on starboard ? I would hate to have it fail and then have to remove that stuff.

With regard to the TACO outriggers ! DAMN! Sold the mounts last Spring for a song ! They were older Grand Slam 260's (?) with handles underneath to rotate them. They were clean. Keep an eye on eBay, that's where I sold them and a guy snagged them FAST ! I think I sold them for $300=$350

[kmoose]

Silicon will work as well if you same as well if you are concerned about removal. I saw a similar fix using small access pie plates. That may be another option.

[FishStretcher]

You can buy pre-skinned nidacore which has white resin- it looks like gel coat. I think I got mine from LBI.

If you cut it 1" larger than the hole on one skin, and just undersized for the hole on the other, you could pop the excess nidacore off and bond those in. Instant flanged nidacore "plugs". Maybe use 5200 or "water weld" epoxy putty.

It won't be as perfect as being glassed over, but it might look ok.

[uncleboo]

I've been using GE Supreme 100% silicone caulking from Lowe's and have been very pleased at the performance of it. I caulked the seams when I repaired the gunwale caps last year and it looks like I just did it. Have used it in several other places with good results.

[Basketcase]

Since you are bolting the plates in, do you need adhesion? I've sealed up things before by putting sealant on one side and wiping a thin layer of grease to the other. Makes it seal up but also come off if needed. I'd think that the bolts would be the what keeps it in place and any sealant used would just seal and not need to provide adhesion. Think of it like a rubber gasket. It doesn't stick, but when clamped tight, it seals. I'd leave the bolts loose but just snug until the silicone cures, then clamp them down. Or maybe just buy some rubber gasket material.

[abl1111]

Thx all for your input - as usual, some great ideas. I went with using 4200 around all - placing the starboard on top, making light contact with all surfaces, but with minimal pressure. I'm going to let that set overnight and then bolt down. I like the gasket idea.

The other area of concern is the through-bolts on top. I countersunk the oval-head bolts to lay flush with the starboard. I'm planning to put 4200 in the countersink and then push bolt head down into the mush - hopefully that will keep rainwater from coming down through the bolts.

I'll let you guys know how it comes out.

FishStretcher - you win for ingenuity. Great idea - sort of like fixing a hole in sheet rock - over cut the new pc, remove the chalk - leave the paper and sparkle her in. I will go that route of this eater one does not work.

I took a few pix but it takes to long to send from camera to computer then to photo bucket then to CSC site...

Maybe later..