1979 23ft Sceptre Rebuild

northwest · #1 06-29-2018, 02:15 PM

Hey all. Long time forum lurker/Classic Seacraft admirer. I've been wanting a Seacraft Sceptre for years- absolutely love the way they look, but none EVER find there way up to the pacific NW. Stumbled upon this one in Los Angeles while I was browsing CL for my next project boat idea. I HAD to have it, so yes, I trailered it 1100 miles back to Seattle. Probably needs a floor, transom, re-core gunnel caps. Maybe stringers too, will need to dig around a little bit once I get it cleaned up, fuel tank out etc. Its complete- even has cuddy cushions. Windows, teak, everything in decent shape. Going to put a bracket on it with probably a 250 for power, and a hard (or maybe canvas) top.

northwest · #2 06-29-2018, 02:24 PM

23 Seacraft

Vezo, Part II · #3 06-29-2018, 04:08 PM

Congratulations!!! Welcome to the Ward! Bad arse!

Vezo, Part II

northwest · #4 07-05-2018, 05:23 PM

Got about half the floor out with a circ saw and crowbar before the batteries died. Will get back to that this weekend. Foam was not wet but the floor is mostly rotten. Looks to me like the original stringer grid. I will inspect the foam in the stringers this week.

I have a couple questions about the transom replacement. Looks to be 2 inches laminated thickness. Was thinking of using 1 1/2 inch Coosa BW26, I think I could get away with one 4x8 sheet. Should I cut the transom skin off from the outside? Seems like easier access and cutting. Did my last boat from the inside and it was tight and hard to access- had to install the new transom in two pieces. Is one way better than the other(cutting inside vs. cutting outside)?

CoreyTrx · #5 07-05-2018, 07:21 PM

Do the transom from the inside. A lot less fairing doing it from the inside. Make a cut across the cap where each of the hawse pipes go then remove that back section of the cap. It will give you plenty of room to do the transom from the inside in one piece. The coosa BW26 1.5” is perfect for the coring.

northwest · #6 07-06-2018, 12:42 AM

Ok thanks. I cut the cap by the hawse pipe holes and removed the screws from the section. Any trick to popping the cap section off? It doesn't want to budge. Seems like maybe its bonded somewhere to the inner transom wall.

CoreyTrx · #7 07-06-2018, 08:30 AM

There is probably some type of sealant in the joint between the cap and hull. Usually you can just run a knife along it and it should break free. I’ve also used one of those vibrating multi tools which work good to cut any sealant

uncleboo · #8 07-06-2018, 11:33 AM

Mine had a bead of silicone and was screwed together, although it is an 18.

northwest · #9 07-13-2018, 03:05 PM

Got the transom cap and floor removed. That's the good news. Bad news is that the stringers are wet from about midship to stern. Transom is rotten but I figured that. I will be cutting off the tops of the stringers and putting new foam in. Question is- since the stringer foam is dry forward, do I need to replace that too, or just leave it and re-foam/re glass the wet part? The goal here for me is to NOT remove the cap.

Capt Chuck · #10 07-13-2018, 04:57 PM

Leave the dry ones alone. You might be able to dry out the wet without removing. Drill some limber holes and let it wick out. The center is PVC not structural so leave it alone.