#1
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1976 20 MA- what to look out for?
Tinkering with the idea of a pretty good project.
One of my clients has a warehousing area and I have always seen a ttop sticking out above the racks. After 3 yrs I finally asked about it. 1976 20 ma .... with T-Top (non original) - very dirty and has been sitting 9 yrs (at least 5-6 inside) - 3 owner with 60-70% fresh water use - has a 1992 Johnson on it that is probably useless but not sure - sitting on a decent 2002 tandem trailer I gave you the quick highlights that I saw while walking around it for 3 minutes. I asked if he’d sell and he basically admitted he wants it “out of the way”. Going back tomorrow to gets my hands dirty really looking at it....what should I really inspect. Tap on transom listening for dead spots....floor bounce etc? I am thinking at minimum Re power / some wiring / new tank / possible new deck |
#2
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Wet transom, soft deck and gunnels, gas tank, engine if it works it's plus, trailer hubs and tires
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#3
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Does it still have HIN still stamped into gelcoat? Original transom or replaced from inside? Are you in NC or South?
Vezo, Part II |
#4
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So went back after the business hrs
Trailer = needs springs / spring hangers at minimum Engine is toast looks like Upgrades = some stainless hardware / ttop is ok / hyd steering looks good and turns freely / trim tabs look to be upgraded / console seems to be aftermarket as well Boat = all hatches are there / fuel cell cover is spongy / deck has to have some soft spots as well / transom sounded solid and didn’t flex when doing the motor tilt test .... but did have a corner that looked chipped / the hull sides seemed to rattle when beating on them and the top cap did shake noticeably when pounds on??? Original vin # |
#5
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When you gently pound on the hull sides the under gunwale rod holders are probably shaking at unsecured point near floor. Mine currently being corrected. The only soft spot on my ‘79 MA was forward of the forward seat of the console. I cut it open last week to repair and found dry and solid plywood still factory intact. Problem is Potter lowered the inboard stringers almost 2”, causing flex and minor cracks in the paint over gelcoat. I have a pic. Soft spots in the rear fuel hatch are normal because if you have the 70 gallon tank, the welded in fuel fill was too high, then scallopingout floor hatch, removing all structural support, and leaving a 6” section of floor top skin as an inspection plate. Not sure if this was factory, or a replacement aluminum fuel tank. My 79 was possibly late in the year as he was scaling down gelcoat thickness on the hull, and an aluminum recessed haindrail, rather than SS originally. Here’s the pic of the forward deck removed. I did not cut it. Mine would have started much smaller chasing rot. But ultimately gave more room for scabbing in new support.
Vezo, Part II |
#6
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Pics
Pics
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#7
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Pics
Pics
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#8
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Poca
Pics
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#9
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What year? I really like the MA's
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#10
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Bleach is your friend. Lots of it. Mix 10% cheap liquid dish detergent into sprayer, pump and go. Detergent increases viscosity allowing to hold on vertical surfaces longer. Old pressure washing trick from power washing houses. Have fun.
Vezo |
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