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  #11  
Old 11-19-2004, 09:29 AM
FELLOW-SHIP FELLOW-SHIP is offline
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Location: Cooper City, Fl
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Default Re: Floor Core Material?

If you are replacing the entire floor to raise the deck like some have done on their 21 footers large pieces is the way do go, but when you are just replacing the lamination “in the middle” and then either putting back the old skin or a new skin on top smaller pieces provide you with the ability to insure adhesion to the bottom layer of glass that was not replaced. When I did my boat deck lamination job I cut my plywood into approx 13-18 pieces and used weights and glue and screw method to help adhere to the bottom lamination glass I also filled in the cracks between and then used new glass on top. If you use pieces approx 1 to 2 feet long you will have the rigid feeling under your feet and will have pieces that are a more manageable plus the added time element due to smaller sections. I kept the sections wide enough to reach from the angle going up the inner liner to the edge of the deck where the deck section stops just before the tank hatch begins. If you go that wide you will never have and bounce in the deck. I did use one very big piece of plywood that started at the stern end of the gas tank hatch and went entirely from port to starboard and back to the transom area needed to do it that way due to the open bilge section. I supported the center area with a 32 gallon live well tank and, a wall inclosing the gas tank from port to starboard stringer and a tall knee from my transom center line up to the deck, plus a 90 degree lip on my splash well supporting that large deck area.
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  #12  
Old 11-19-2004, 01:37 PM
Captn C Captn C is offline
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Default Re: Floor Core Material?

Quote:

Squares are supposed to be used with crosscut wood pieces (like balsa). This is the most rigid form of wood...
I knew there was a good reason.....I just couldn't think of it.

What a great site for information! Thanks
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