Salvagefirst's 23

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Les
I came in from the inside like you when I did my boat and I also used marine grade ¾ plywood as you are.
I measured the thickness of my old outside skin and it was not as thick as I liked it so I added two layers of glass to that wall building out to about 5/16 of a inch maybe 3/8 of a inch. Then I used the glue and screw method with thickened epoxy to lay the first layer of plywood I beveled the edges of the plywood to get to fit correctly and after it started to harden I used a putty knife with pennant butter thickened epoxy squeezing it into the gap all around the edges of the first wall of plywood. Then I did the same thing with the second ¾ sheet of plywood using thickened epoxy glue and screw method.
What you do First it to brush on regular epoxy on both sides of the job either fiberglass wall and one side of the plywood or if you are on the second sheet of plywood brush on regular epoxy on the two sides that tough each other then mix up mayonnaise thickened epoxy and use one of those trawls that look like a comb with ridges and apply your thickened resin after that use clamps and screws to hold together. Let it dry and then go on with the second layer of plywood and the pennant butter around the edges. Then add at least ¼ to 3/8 layers of glass on the outside tying it to the hull at least 6” overlap I added several extra approx 8x12 lap over’s all around the plywood to the walls of the hull. Then add at least 1 to 3 knees to add additional support. And then it’s Budweiser time.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[warthog5]

Something that you may want to think about before you install the plywood. Depending on the thichness of the transom cap. Cut the camber into the top edge of the plywood and make it say 1/2in or 3/4in shy of the top of your existing transom top glass.
This will give you a ledge for the top cap to sit on and conform easier. I used 3/4in Kledgecell for my top cap. I laid it in a mold and glassed the bottom side. As I found out the mold wasn't really nessissary. It will conform with glass on just one side.
Seacraft's have a little more camber in the transom cap than I like. On an 8ft beam boat. The transom will a little narrower. I like the center 1 1/2in higher than the sides. This allows an easy surface to walk on and if your going to install any kind of hatch's it will be a little easier to make them conform.
http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw4.htm

[salvagefirst]

Fellow-Ship ,what are u using to thicken the epoxy, cabosil, microballons? I hate to buy more epoxy ive allready got 4 gallons of 635 thin from US composites. I still need to order more cloth, what type did you use? Thanks, Les

[FELLOW-SHIP]

As for the epoxy I used West Systems I also used their line of fillers some are designed for fairing and some are designed for filling and structural usages I cant remember the # on the cans but you can get their booklets and read all about it. As for the fiberglass itself again I can’t remember the # but woven roven types of glass is what you want. The thicker it is the harder it is to soak the epoxy into and the harder it is for angle work around the edges I would rather use two or three layers of glass than one thick one. Maybe someone else can give you that info again I would have to look it up “if I could find it” I would also say that those little West Booklets will walk you through the whole process it did for me. I found that doing a boat is 90% labor and approx 5% brains the rest is lots of BEER.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img]

[salvagefirst]

I will definitly owe you a beer when this is done! Thanks,Les