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#1
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The serial No. will tell you what year the motor is. Looks like it sat in the water a long time! How well does that power trim work? I wouldn't want to have to overhaul that power trim unit - primary tools required would be Kroil, the acetylene wrench and an air chisel! (Ask GFS how much fun that is!) Did you find out what size prop is on it?
The V-4 block is just the V-6 block with 2 cylinders cut off, so the V-4's with V-6 lower units are common, especially on the modern 25" motors. Looks like an EZ Loader trailer under it with the good new style rollers; good stout trailer, just check springs and rear X-member for rust. I finally replaced my rear X-member after 25 years because it was looking ugly, but it still had pretty decent wall thickness. Original thickness was 3/16" and it still hadn't rusted all the way through! Denny
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
#2
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I was told the prop is 15x17 (if that makes sense). So...for someone with not a lot of extra cash to fix a motor, is this a dangerous gamble? I'm calling the "rebuilder" today to check the history...hopefully I will get an honest answer.
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#3
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Batter up! The TnT manifold is 1600 clams. A good quality motor is 180-240. The shafts are 70 + 90. Unless you are a very good clammer, I would think of another line of work. I can`t begin to tell you how much I wanted a real torch. "It can`t be done with MAPP gas". This was a recurrrrrrrrring earworm. Oh, the horror. I started out slowly and patiently. Spray and whack. Brass drift and a three pound sledge. Over and over and over. Every morning. Every night. Every hour on weekends. I got a fresh water unit and bang. I kept my old one as it is going to be in a thread. The fresh water unit was a mop and glow. Chineeese motor and Rustoleum. How to build a TnT to last. coming soon. Rosebud. Last edited by gofastsandman; 03-14-2012 at 09:06 PM. |
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