Subpar Transom Repair - Thoughts?

[Old'sCool]

Isn't the question whether or not the work performed was what you (both) contracted to do or have done? Seems to me if you have a quote or contract for a specific lay-up that's what you're paying for regardless if something else "will work".

[Bushwacker]

Maseo, the bending loads from the motor acting on the transom will put tensile loads in the inner skin, so ideally you'd want more than 1 layer on the inside. I think we used 3 layers on inside of transom on Skip & Carla's boat, based on recommendations from a really good professional fiberglass guy. If you have any future repairs done, it'd be good to run 'em by this forum first! However, what you have now is undoubtedly a lot stronger than what you had before with the rotted wood core, especially if the guy used epoxy resin! Your new core will now carry the loads that were probably carried by the glass skin on the old one. These boats are so overbuilt that you should be ok, especially since you're not racing it! Denny

[Blue_Heron]

There's one other thing to look out for. A thick inner laminate spreads the crushing/puncture loads from the engine mounting bolts. Your thin laminate won't, so either get large fender washers or plates to spread the load over a larger area.
Dave

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

There's one other thing to look out for. A thick inner laminate spreads the crushing/puncture loads from the engine mounting bolts. Your thin laminate won't, so either get large fender washers or plates to spread the load over a larger area.
Dave

You could also install some brass or SS sleeves in the holes for the engine mount bolts to help carry the crush loads.

Don's right about the I-beam concept for cored construction. Equal laminate thickness on each side of the core would create maximum stiffness, but I suspect most boat builders are inclined to cut corners and reduce cost on thickness of the inside laminate!

[FishStretcher]

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

There's one other thing to look out for. A thick inner laminate spreads the crushing/puncture loads from the engine mounting bolts. Your thin laminate won't, so either get large fender washers or plates to spread the load over a larger area.
Dave

I suggest getting a couple of feet of 6061 aluminum C channel. Per ASTM B 308 with the rounded inside corners. I used 3 x 1.75". I put 2 feet down in the bilge. Use that as your "washer". It will transfer the load across to the box stringers. If you can handle the look, 3 feet of the same up in the splashwell will help spread the load there, too. With a little handiwork with a file and drill, you can use it as a cable trough for the outboard wiring harness and transom mounted depth sounder wiring harness.

To me, it makes more sense than trying to crush plywood under a fender washer that is distorting under the bolt load to become dome shaped.

I used this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#1630T321

[flyingfrizzle]

I have used 4" x 3/8" aluminum anodized flat bar before as a backing plate. It will look a bit better but not as strong as the channel would be. You can find this any where they builds t-tops. It is used for mounting t-top mount outrigger and for other support on boat towers ect. It would help spread the load much better than a fender washer or such.