Rotten core on forward deck, how would you fix it?

[abl1111]

This is what I'd do ( I had a similar situation - and this is what I did ). My rot only extended about 2" around the hole. But, if you can clean out the bad wood, this would work:

First, you must dig out the bad core. I used a set of Allen keys put into a drill chuck to get the horizontal mush out. I used a compressor and vacuum to blow/suck to clean it out as I went. Take your time and get the mush out. Then, let it dry. I put plastic on the bottom of the hole, held in place with Gorilla Tape. I put a computer "muffin" fan over the top to exhaust air out from the hole - taking moisture with it - for a few days. If you can, keep a hearing pad on or around the area to help with evaporation.

When I was ready to fill with epoxy, I re-taped the hole from the bottom with plastic and Gorilla Tape - make sure you get a really good bond or you'll have a mess ( for such a big hole, I might use a 1/4" of plywood covered with plastic, screwed into place ( do not go through the deck !) - use Mortite ( like a clay ) sandwiched between the ply and the underneath of the deck, around the whole thing to avoid the epoxy from dripping out.

Then, mix up epoxy and a lot of chopped fiberglass ( must have a good flowing consistency ). I used a syringe to put through smaller access holes, but you could just poor into the void to fill it up. This will self level so if the boat is not level, neither will your epoxy be ( try to level the area - use a level and adjust trailer as necessary ). Depending on the area to be filled, it could 'drink' a lot - so be ready to mix another batch with chopped glass.

This is a very fluid mix so be sure that your 1/4"/ plastic/ mortite/ screw-job is leak proof.

Once dry, you could drill through to make a new hole - or, you could use Gorilla tape around the circumference of the opening to create a 'wall', so the epoxy stays within the area you want to fill - so you don't fill the inspection plate hole. This is how I did it and the Gorilla Tape held perfectly, keeping the epoxy contained where I wanted it.

My repair is rock solid...

[Enyar]

Originally Posted by abl1111

This is what I'd do ( I had a similar situation - and this is what I did ). My rot only extended about 2" around the hole. But, if you can clean out the bad wood, this would work:

First, you must dig out the bad core. I used a set of Allen keys put into a drill chuck to get the horizontal mush out. I used a compressor and vacuum to blow/suck to clean it out as I went. Take your time and get the mush out. Then, let it dry. I put plastic on the bottom of the hole, held in place with Gorilla Tape. I put a computer "muffin" fan over the top to exhaust air out from the hole - taking moisture with it - for a few days. If you can, keep a hearing pad on or around the area to help with evaporation.

When I was ready to fill with epoxy, I re-taped the hole from the bottom with plastic and Gorilla Tape - make sure you get a really good bond or you'll have a mess ( for such a big hole, I might use a 1/4" of plywood covered with plastic, screwed into place ( do not go through the deck !) - use Mortite ( like a clay ) sandwiched between the ply and the underneath of the deck, around the whole thing to avoid the epoxy from dripping out.

Then, mix up epoxy and a lot of chopped fiberglass ( must have a good flowing consistency ). I used a syringe to put through smaller access holes, but you could just poor into the void to fill it up. This will self level so if the boat is not level, neither will your epoxy be ( try to level the area - use a level and adjust trailer as necessary ). Depending on the area to be filled, it could 'drink' a lot - so be ready to mix another batch with chopped glass.

This is a very fluid mix so be sure that your 1/4"/ plastic/ mortite/ screw-job is leak proof.

Once dry, you could drill through to make a new hole - or, you could use Gorilla tape around the circumference of the opening to create a 'wall', so the epoxy stays within the area you want to fill - so you don't fill the inspection plate hole. This is how I did it and the Gorilla Tape held perfectly, keeping the epoxy contained where I wanted it.

My repair is rock solid...

I'm basically at the point of letting the wood dry out. I'm goign to pour acetone in there to help with the drying/kill the rot spores. Your repair was my original game plan but the rot extended much farther than I expected. As of now the core is removed about 5" surrounding the entire deck plate hole. but I know it extends farther. I think I need to cut the hole bigger so that I can get farther reach so that I hopefully get back to goo wood. If my new hole is still not large enough then at least the hole will be big enough for me to get tools in there to cut out the bottom skin and replace from underneath. I just don't want to cut the top skin because the gelcoat is still in such good condition.

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

Did you see my post on your previous thread?

Vezo

I did, thank you.

[wattaway2]

Abl1111 and mine are basically the same type of idea but the calling tubes allow for more material to work with

[Ed]

Can you take a picture of the entire foredeck?

There may be a more effective way to do this.

[uncleboo]

Just a reality check...I had an area approximately 8" x 12" on the starboard side of the console that was soft. surrounding areas were still solid. Yet, this is what I uncovered.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1543346697

[Enyar]

Originally Posted by uncleboo

Just a reality check...I had an area approximately 8" x 12" on the starboard side of the console that was soft. surrounding areas were still solid. Yet, this is what I uncovered.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1543346697

No doubt! I had a similar situation with my Whaler. It was a side console boat and the deck felt rock solid. I would have painted right over it if I didn't convert the boat to a center console. In order to do so I had to dig a rigging tunnel in the foam and once I started digging I found rot. Ended up replacing the whole deck on that one!

This boat has much thicker top/bottom skins and actually still feels solid. I was planning on pulling that pie plate and just glassing any exposed wood and then sealing it back up. It wasn't until I got in there when I found the rot.

Anyone with one of these older boats with original transom/deck/stringers is kidding themselves if they think they are rot free. That being said, they are still surprisingly tough even with the rot.

[Vezo, Part II]

Haha! Second BW Sport 15 refurb here. Classic ‘82 overbuilt in custom 5/4” Mahogony. All stock configuration, to scale, however all SS hardware unseen, MAS epoxied and covered in 12 coats of Spar.

‘88 pulled interior, created rigging tunnel, given a cc from a builder in Charleston, pre-‘08 crash, mahogany front door, like 1.5” thick base, to be hinged, custom fuel tank and fuel cell. Everything but a livewell. Couldn’t fit it.

Ever stand up and drive a 15? Absolutely sick. Continuous wave member, Tower of Power with like 120 hp to prop. I didn’t drive it because I could not stop laughing! Like hanging ten on a surfboard, but never stuffing!?! Unexplainable. Trying to find a low hour Yam 90 2 stroke and manual jack plate, same as ‘82 with F60. Too much Fun!

Vezo