![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Has an aluminum oil pan that I have seriously coated in paint and primer. Everything’s been or getting painted… Definitely putting on a remote drain kit (flip lever with hose out the drain plug style). I’ve been arguing about an oil cooler (requiring remote oil filter). It’s probably worth it.
EDIT: this cooling plan is bust see new post about this. ![]() ![]() This is what I’m going for but above shows fitting sizes. I was toying with doing a pipe manifold with 4 inputs on bottom of manifold (already has threaded holes) but think dual in and out will give more flow. ![]() Input, suggestions, etc, please. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
remember to remove the pressure relief valve and plug the hole. That joker got me when I rebuilt my 5.3 and deleted the afm.
__________________
1979 23 SCEPTRE TWIN 150 Opti's/GAUSE BUILT BRACKET |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Do you mean the bypass check valve on the oil filter housing? I haven’t done anything there. I suppose I should look into it. Thanks for the heads up.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hit a snag on dbc on gen 4 engine
E38 pcms don’t support the IAC, TPS connections required for dbc. And I’m not willing to try to figure out a DBW saltwater situation. So I found the ligenfelter trg-002 which adapts a 58x/4x engine to a 24x/1x harness. You can then use a LS1 stand alone harness and get a pcm from an early 2000’s Ls to control it. I think I’ll end up around a 2001 pcm. I’ll post more data when can on this issue. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Wish I had a bit more time as I’m on the Big Isld. Staying on a coffee farm airbnb. North of Kona(captain cook)Have to spend tomorrow getting ready for a overnight fishing trip with Kenny Lianes on the Vixen! On Tuesday/Wednesday then leaving on Thursday.
Sounds like you have a hell of a project going getting all of the electronic systems to work with each other! Been keeping an eye on your project and the good work your doing. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
For sure bro! I’m on Hilo side but I’m heading kona way on Sat. All those guys there are all stars. I haven’t met a bad one yet.
Enjoy. Ahi (yellowfin) is biting and ono (wahoo) is my favorite. I think there is a way forward here without the Holley terminator x. That would solve it all but this should work. Tanks, eh. N Mahalos for da aloha! |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
So it’s been awhile since I’ve updated this. I’ve been having a terrible time getting stuff. My wife’s school (and where our kids go) went to distance learning for 2 weeks. There have been a few cases across the campus and they had no choice. My son tested positive. He’s doing ok so far.
So I had ordered a matching gen 4 harness and pcm. That’s not gonna work. So I ordered a stand-alone LS1 harness that was labeled dbc. But it’s a dbw. So I ordered another harness and the correct 12200411 pcm and sent it to Brendan at lt1swap.com for programming. Here I’ve been able to get the balancer back on. I had to order a 1157-0163 ls7 ($20 Chevy dealer) crank bolt and used about 8-10 1/2” washers to push that thing on. You’ll need someone with a breaker bar on the flywheel. ![]() My plan for the coils won’t work either so I’m thinking of fabbing a bracket to go here or just screw them to transom. Thoughts? I’m making custom plug wires via a msd kit. ![]() And here is what the raw water pump looks like when it is bolted down via bracket and crank bolt connector through marine engine depot.com ![]() Well now I’m stuck at home for another 9 days until we all get tested. Eagerly awaiting the harness and parts. Guess I’ll do some glass work and painting as weather permits. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
So I’ve found another flaw in my plan. I had that fancy cooling setup figured out. But notice the no clearance issues. I’m not even sure I can get an elbow in there.
So I’ll have to plan to go the traditional setup. ![]() But the plug wires and some other misc stuff finally arrived. I’m locating cooling hoses and have some fuel lines to take care of. Expansion and overflow tanks are planned out. Feel like I’m getting close to firing it up. |
![]() |
|
|