23' Seacraft Rebuild in RI

[Thomas]

Finished up cutting most of the tabbing to get at the remainder ply in the bottom of the boat. The keel stringer is shot- you can see where it has been screwed into over the years.

It seems like when they installed the I/O 2x6 motor mounts they layered the glass over the mounts, down the hull, over the keel and back up to the opposite mount. I found the glass on the sides of the mounts were delaminating with water in the bilge area- prying it and cutting it back it seems like it works its way forward in the boat. Does anyone have any insight to where this glass should stop? i don't want to pull too much up.

[Thomas]

Keepin' at it. Took the old transducers off, they were mounted in a cup as part of the hull with a ton of putty. Keel stringer was completely shot, cool to see a part number handwritten on the side of it.

[fishingproblem]

Going deep, doing it right. Good job!

[strick]

Yea that that thing outa there...it's like the guts on a shrimp...nice work

strick

[Cheg]

Boy does this bring back memories. Mine was a 76. Used all composite for transom and floor and have no regrets. Took me four years though. Good luck.

[wattaway2]

Originally Posted by Thomas

Thanks. My keel stringer is wood i removed a square from the top of it about 4' forward of the transom. Its wet stabbing a chisel into it you can see the moisture. Would you recommend the pvc keel stringer mod i have read about to replace this? I assume i need to beef up the layup on the keel when i am down in there.

The vents will be in the way of the new transom 3" thick is what i am aiming for. Any ideas on new ventilation places? I personally like the no vent look

Just wonder why you need that much thickness if your staying with the I/O ? I converted my 23cc I/O to a bracket and especially with the full bracket found absolutely no need for anything more then the 2” thickness . If you stay with the I/O I would think the vents would be a real advantage in keeping the complete hull ventilated as at rest there is a low section between the CC and the bow that holds water and I would assume fumes as well.

[Thomas]

Originally Posted by wattaway2

Just wonder why you need that much thickness if your staying with the I/O ? I converted my 23cc I/O to a bracket and especially with the full bracket found absolutely no need for anything more then the 2” thickness . If you stay with the I/O I would think the vents would be a real advantage in keeping the complete hull ventilated as at rest there is a low section between the CC and the bow that holds water and I would assume fumes as well.

Wattaway, the boat will have a single 300 and a stoner bracket on it, the I/O is long gone.I am going to aim for 2 1/4" inches by laminating x3 3/4" sheets + glass.

[Thomas]

Slow going been cold in the garage up here in RI. I managed to get the transom all sanded down with flap disks, finding some delamination in a few layers of the transom glass which came from the I/O opening that was cracked. More clean up to do, then time to gather materials for the transom.

[Thomas]

More grinding today. The transom is cleaned up most of the keel stringer tabbing is gone- just need to grind the fillet flush. Pictures of the I/B cracking i have to grind back. More grinding to come

[Xcomunic8d]

Looks familiar and you’ve got a good plan with 3-3/4” plys. Beyond a tyvek suit I’ve had good success putting lotion on skin before grinding seems to keep glass out.

Then I fold up some tape over my hand adhesive out and pat my skin down to pull the glass out works pretty good overall.