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  #41  
Old 07-05-2012, 10:52 PM
martin martin is offline
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Here I used there core bedding compound. They recomended Vacuum baggin but I could not do it at this time.. So i just Pressed it in the core and then applied it to the hull. then i took a formica hand roller and Rolled the Dog crap out of it.. it seemed to hold very well...
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  #42  
Old 07-05-2012, 11:09 PM
martin martin is offline
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Default Glassed the Nida core with 1708 Biaxial and another layer of 1.5 oz mat

Glassed over the nida core with bi-axial 1708 and another 1.5 oz mat ,,debating on vacuum baggin the last layer so i can get a better finish and not have to fair as much. or maybe just lay a sheet of sheathing over the wet glass and then peel off after the resin sets up. I then started to glass in the keel and get it ready for the pourable material..
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  #43  
Old 07-06-2012, 12:36 AM
strick strick is offline
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Your boat is going to be solid as a rock with that coring in place. I put Balsa in mine and am very happy with how solid the boat is. Nice work!

strick
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  #44  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:07 AM
martin martin is offline
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Your boat is going to be solid as a rock with that coring in place. I put Balsa in mine and am very happy with how solid the boat is. Nice work!

strick
Thanks Strick,, By the way, How did you blend the top cap with the transom? Did you flare your cap out a bit for the transom crown.? oh and it looks like you just added two inches to the Stringers. i thought about raising mine but it does not give much freeboard.. i am trying to determine the waterline .. Should i just Put boat in water and load with blocks till i get the correct weight .. Tryng to determine the Scupper height. I see yours is perfect just above the sheer .. Ps I was wondering if anyone has tried to flip a 20 over on her top. I want to keep the deck cap on and work on her from the inside So I don't loose the lines i have now..I still need to core the underside of the top deck. So I thought about flipping her over with cap still attached.. I am afraid that if i core the underside with cap off i will disort the top cap
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  #45  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:10 AM
Mark Mark is offline
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Quote:
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If I were to ever redo another 20sf or a master angler I would remove the forward casting platform and make the deck flush to the bow and add a coffin box with a live well built into it. Have you seen the Lefty Kreh edition?
I've fished off one. It really is the way to go with that boat.
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  #46  
Old 07-06-2012, 09:30 AM
Blue_Heron Blue_Heron is offline
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Quote:
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I have nida cored the sides of hull and built up the keel.
Hey, Martin. Where did you get your Nida Core, and how much did it cost? Was thinking of using it to core the deck of my Hewes when I get around to it.
Thanks,
Dave
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  #47  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:48 PM
martin martin is offline
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Apdmro... Free shipping over 300 dollars careful on the prices some are per sqft
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  #48  
Old 07-06-2012, 01:54 PM
martin martin is offline
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I used 1/2" on the sides. Using 2 " foam for gunnel supports and 1" nidacores for the deck.. can't beat free shipping. 68.00 for 1/2". And. 78 for 1"... They also have panels made up already for 280 a sheet
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  #49  
Old 07-15-2012, 10:49 PM
martin martin is offline
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Default nida cored the top cap

Here i apllied the nida core and am setting up to vacuum bag the glass to nida core
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  #50  
Old 07-15-2012, 11:12 PM
strick strick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin View Post
By the way, How did you blend the top cap with the transom? Did you flare your cap out a bit for the transom crown.? oh and it looks like you just added two inches to the Stringers. i thought about raising mine but it does not give much freeboard.. i am trying to determine the waterline .. Should i just Put boat in water and load with blocks till i get the correct weight .. Tryng to determine the Scupper height.
1. On the cap I built a mold. It's in the photos of the rebuild. The part (new crown) is glassed to the top of the transom. Better to raise the stringers in the 20 that way you are assured good drainage.

2. Scupper height is determined by your floor height.

3. Never seen anyone work in the inside of the cap with the whole boat up side down. If you brace the cap properly and take it off the boat you should be fine. Opps looks like you have already covered that one

strick
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