Choosing Materials

[Locke N Load]

Hello all,

I am gaining steam with getting the rebuild phase of my Seafari going and have some big picture questions. Are there any general rules when deciding which materials to use where?

My plan is to use epoxy resin so I figure CSM is a waste and to just go with straight fabric or woven roving. Any reason to use CSM when using epoxy? I am raising the stringers, redoing the transom from the inside and building a bracket. Some work on the cap around the transom and some hole patching as well. I am thinking 17oz cloth and or 18oz woven roving with maybe something light like 4oz cloth for final layers to stop print through and ease with fairing. Make sense?

With the different directions offered any reason to use a 0/90 over a 45/45 in any particular spots? Or am I overthinking this like I am prone to do and as long as you use enough glass and the proper amount and application of resin it will be good to go?

Thanks

[dirtwheelsfl]

A very general "rule" is to keep the heavy stuff down low and work lighter as you go up. It all depends on what you wanna use, and there is no correct answer for that. The thicker the hull/bottom is the lighter you can go on structural supports, theres so many variables though we need a bit more info on what youre thinking to use.

I use about 1sq ft. of CSM a year with epoxy, sharp outside radii where 3 points meet is about all i do with it, like a console corner or something like that. 1700 is about all you need, but it is harder to handle that a 1708 or whatever, it really likes to deform so it takes some careful handling.

Skip the heavy roving altogether. The finish cloth wont really eliminate the print through, but it does help with fairing as its alot easier to fill the weave than the biax. Sometimes you can highbuild right over it depending on what kinda finish u want.

For what were doing 45/45 is all thats really needed. If you have some 0/90 or uni though, keels, chines and stringer caps (long stuff) can benefit. Totally unnecessary though.

[steel686]

Best advice I have gotten came from you back in March. Layup big sheets out of the boat and transfer. Wet out the CSM side of the 1708 and then flip it. Having just done first layups with 1700 I expected it to be easy to wet out but even doing it in place I distorted the compound corners. Good to practice on smaller pieces first if you can.

[Locke N Load]

So, 1708 is easier to work with than 17oz cloth since it is stitched with CSM on the back to keep it's shape? The tradeoff being you have to use more resin to wet it out and don't get much if any extra strength from the CSM? My plan has always been to wet out an area, lay unwetted glass on and then wet out the glass. Squeegee and roller to get air out and excess resin off.

[steel686]

This is my first run at it so I would look to Dirtwheels for the best answers. Don't know where you are and what temperatures you have for pot life but laying it on dry and doing multiple layers is tougher than flipping it. I practiced on recoring hatches until I was comfortable getting cloth saturated. I did my transom from the inside and was told 4 layers of 1708 was right to match outside skin thickness with plenty of strength, test fit everything, and "keep your roller wet." Look forward to seeing you dig in.

[Locke N Load]

I am on the South Shore, MA. Working on building an enclosure now with grand ideas of a generator to plug a space heater, lights and tools in to.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Originally Posted by Locke N Load

So, 1708 is easier to work with than 17oz cloth since it is stitched with CSM on the back to keep it's shape? The tradeoff being you have to use more resin to wet it out and don't get much if any extra strength from the CSM? My plan has always been to wet out an area, lay unwetted glass on and then wet out the glass. Squeegee and roller to get air out and excess resin off.

Pretty much... 1700 becomes like a snakeskin when wet. 1708 much more manageable.

Every situation is different and if i can wet something out outside of the boat then transfer i will. Otherwise yes wet out underneath, put dry glass on, fully saturate it and hardroll it. You dont want dry layups, so wet out first and let it absorb into the core a bit.

[Locke N Load]

Thanks for the replies. I think it is time to get some test materials and do some playing around.